Week 5 Mileage: 200
A Bunch of Aunts, a Bunch of Calories…and Yes, Snow
I had 16.7 miles to make it to Donahue Pass and enter Yosemite. Normally not difficult from 1pm, but these weren’t normal conditions. Standing between me and the entry point was Island Pass. I would consider this one of the easier passes, add in the snow however, and it becomes a tough slog. After losing the trail more times than I can count, I arrived at the top of Donahue at 8:30 pm and carefully made my way down the north side, following footprints. The snow was deep, with every step sinking down to my knee. I camped next to a pond 36 miles into my day.
Yosemite was a ghost town except for the winged devils (mosquitoes) that have decided to make their presents known. Apparently, Yosemite suffered a lot of damage due to last year’s record snow and they still were dealing with it; hence the late opening. Cruising through Tuolumne Meadows, I was moving pretty well, taking advantage of the nonexistent snowpack, but it soon returned, and my pace was slowed. Passed a couple who were turning around because they thought the rivers were too dangerous to cross. I arrived at the river an hour later. Raging, sure, impassable, no. The next one was worse and the one after that even sketchier. I passed a hiker named ” Smash” who started April 22. He said I was the first person to pass him. I also Passed a Czech guy named “2 Packs.” They camped a couple miles before Benson Pass. I still had a few hours and I used all of them to reach the top. Snowpack and switchbacks down. I finally found a dry spot to pitch my tent for the night.
The next day’s goal was Dorothy Lake Pass, which is the northern boundary of Yosemite. There was a lot of rivers to cross. Steep, snow covered switchbacks to navigate and of course, no trail blazes. Because VVR had burned me on the charging station I had to be very careful with my phone usage until Sonora Pass. No music, podcasts and only navigation if I absolutely needed it (which was a lot of the time.) I had a windy, cold night at Dorothy and woke up early. I had 19.7 miles to go, with 19% battery left and 7 packets of oatmeal and one pack of Ramen. After some great ups and downs, some glissades and foot sliding, I reached Sonora at 2:30. Got a hitch from some bike packers in a sprinter van. She rode the brakes the whole way down this sketchy road, and we arrived at 3 pm.
I was Starving! Here’s my food rundown for the 19 hours I was at Kennedy Meadows North: 2 string cheeses, a Starbucks Frappuccino, bag of Doritos, PCT Triple cheeseburger w/ fries, a coke, ice cream sandwich, “Bomb” burrito, 24 Oz prime rib w/ baked potato, corn, 2 rolls, an Indian pudding, root beer, 2 eggs, home fries, 2 pieces of toast, 2 cups of coffee, and a V8 juice. Yeah, that’s about it.
All the ladies there took great care of this emaciated, hairy hiker. Suzy gave me extra fries and rolls. Carrol gave me an extra shower token and antibiotic lotion for my sun burn. Bonnie gave me my own room to check in early. Barbie packed my ice axe and bear canister to send home, and uncle Gary and Aunt Sandy got me on the shuttle. I love this place. Also, they are a pack station with horses, so cowboys and cowgirls were around. Sara from Louisiana rubbed apple cider vinegar on my cracked and blistered ankles. Outwardly I was acting calm, inwardly, I was crying like a 2-year-old who just lost their binky. I think she may have had the hots for me. LOL. I mean c’mon, I’m 6’3″ 110 pounds with a scraggly beard.
My shoes were done, blown out by the Sierra. It wouldn’t be for more than 300 miles before I picked up my new pair. They happened to have some for sale. My size, and cheap. A pair of Brooks Cascadia for $60. They retail for $150.
Back on the trail at 11am. More snow, but able to follow footprints. I caught the German named “Smokey Bear” that night at camp. And then again, the next night, after taking the wrong turn down a canyon. After some hard days, I finished the week, again just over 200 miles. Soon I’ll be out of snow until Oregon and picking up my pace!
