Week 19: Bridger Teton Wilderness, WY to Sage Creek Road, WY

Total Mileage: 265.9

 

I was cold and wet all night so I wasn’t able to get good sleep. I struggled to get packed up and moving, but finally did at 7am. A late start for me but that’s how it goes sometimes.

Because I wasn’t able to get close to 40 miles the previous day, I knew I wouldn’t make it to South Pass City before they closed the gift shop at 5pm on Thursday. I decided to do the alternate routes through the Wind River Range and hit Knapsack Col and Cirque of the Towers. My pace would be slowed by the terrain but I would get some really good views and some good technical hiking in.

Leading up to Knapsack was awesome with beautiful lakes and twisting, exposed trails. I did the CDT redline last year so I was happy to do these alternates even though my pace would be slowed. Arriving on top of Knapsack at 6pm, I had a sketchy scree field to navigate down to Glacier and into Titcomb Basin where I camped for the night. I was satisfied with 29.8 miles for the day.

On the trail at 5am the next morning, I made my way back to the CDT and to the Cirque of the Towers alternate by the end of the day.

The next morning the clouds spit rain on occasion and I pushed hard, up and over Texas Pass and Jackass Pass. Saw a weekend hiker with the most lopsided, enormous pack I think I’ve ever seen. I asked him if he bought one of everything at REI before this trip. A lot of weekend hikers in this section that I had to pass, “excuse me,” “right behind you” until making it back to the CDT and through some blow-downs. I finished late with 38.2 miles leaving 11.5 miles on the table to South Pass City and my next resupply.

Arriving there just before 9am, I took just over an hour and got back on the trail wanting to do 35 miles out from 10:30am. The Basin is completely exposed desert so I was able to cruise and finish with 46.5 miles.

The next day a 50 and 32.9 after that to arrive in Rawlins by 4:30 on Sunday. Hotel, Walmart, good sleep and I was at the post office and heading out of Rawlins by 11am. Met a mechanical engineer named Mountain Goat and we hiked out of Rawlins together. Cowboy camped off the side of the road.

It felt good to almost be in Colorado!

 

Week 18: Lima, ID to Bridger Teton Wilderness, WY

Total Mileage: 252.6

 

After the cow-crap-covered pack incident and finishing out the week just south of Lima, I needed to push hard to make it to the Island Park post office on Wednesday before it closed at 4.

So I did a 41.4 to Taylor Mountain and did 25.6 by 3:45 to arrive at the post office which had my 9th pair of shoes. Took an hour to charge my stuff, ate a Cali chimichanga and kept going.

The next day I arrived in Yellowstone and hiked with 2 traveling nurses, “Moon Fall” and “Bodega.” We hiked and talked all the way to Old Faithful Village. Great humans!

From there I went another 10 miles and cowboy camped on the beach at Shoshone Lake. The next day I met “Hong Kong”, a great kid from San Fran rocking an External Frame Pack. Haven’t seen those since the 70’s, lol. We spent the next couple days hiking together. Awesome dude and we hiked to the pass and hitched into Dubois. He picked up the lunch tab and I decided to not shower or laundry and just resupply my food and get back on the trail.

At the grocery store I ran into “Chuckles” and “Frisky” a couple from back home I was hoping to see on the trail. I decided to hike out with them and take a leisurely afternoon. I Camped with them and got to bed before 10pm, which I hadn’t done in a while. I said my goodbyes and left for the trail at 4:45 am.

Everything was going relatively smooth until about 2pm when the dark clouds rolled in while I was going through a wide open meadow. Thunder, lightning and hail lingered right over the top of me and it took 40 minutes to get to the treeline and pitch my tent. I had been running to get out of it and once I got inside my tent, freezing and soaked, I passed out for 2 hours. When I woke up it was drizzling so I packed up and hiked another 3 hours before calling it a day.

What a week!

 

Week 17: Black Mountain, MT to Lima, ID

Total Mileage: 258

 

Sorry for the delay in posts. I’ve been sending it pretty hard and service has been very spotty.

This is a long one because I’m currently on a flat 113 mile section of the Red Desert on a road so I have nothing but time as I walk and write this.

Anyway, I did it again. I didn’t get enough food out of Anaconda. So 3 days into this 230+ mile section, I had to start rationing. Doing 40’s on 2,000 calories is not fun. Thankfully, in this section I would run into an incredible human from back home, “Stix”, who is crushing the CDT and getting her Triple Crown. (That means she’s hiked the Appalachian Trail, Pacific Crest Trail and Continental Divide Trail.) What makes her Triple Crown so impressive is that she’s a 10%er. Which means she doesn’t skip any miles of the trail. Very few hikers do this. 90% of people claiming to thru hike skip. She posts great pictures and videos so follow along with her @maxinemachine on Instagram. When we met up she wasn’t feeling too god and I was desperately low on food, so when she asked if I wanted to take some of hers, I played it off but inside I was beyond ecstatic! After a couple hours, sadly we went our separate ways. It helped to see a familiar face, It does get lonely sometimes. Just part of the mental challenge of the loop I guess.

Finishing the day with a 38.5, and making it to Bannock Pass at 6:30pm the next evening, I did the Anaconda to Leadore segment of 233 miles in 5 days 8 hours and 30 minutes. A trail angle named Randy picked me up right on time at Bannock Pass and got me into town just before the store closed and I could stuff my face with some refined sugar and processed goodness. Stayed at a campground down the street, somehow fried my GoPro by charging it too long overnight. I sent it to Dallas to handle. Until then just pics unfortunately.

I also received a Birthday care package from “Mom Cut” a sweat heart of a person I met on the PCT this year. I had all kinds of things including a mini peach pie with a candle. Thank you!!

Randy was right on time and I was able to get back to the trail at 10:30am. Full resupply with a goal to get to Island Park, ID in under 5 days. A 180 mile section. Tough however with a lot of elevation gain, ridge climbs up, up, up then down, down, down. Water was tough with not a lot of options and those hoofed 😈 we’re everywhere, forcing me to to treat all sources except springs.

My birthday on the 14 was more eventful than I wanted it to be. I was in good spirits after hitting 4,000 miles a couple days before. Blasting out of camp while it was still dark I was using my headlamp. Once it got light enough I didn’t notice it was still on and at some point it fell off my head without me noticing. I hiked a mile back looking for it with no luck and I knew this would come back to burn me. I just didn’t think it would be the way that it did.

Open meadows, some roads, and for the most part, an easy day. By 9:30 it was almost dark and I was at 39.8 miles. Side-hilling through hoofed devil country I finally called it. Plopped my pack down and just cowboy camped under the stars. The night was clear. At 1:30am I heard thunder and lightning, it was coming towards me and being this exposed gave me flashbacks from Yellowstone from last year. (See week 14 or 15 from GWL 2021 for that story) I quickly stuffed everything into the large pouch on the outside of my pack and hiked half a mile down lower to safety and just crashed right there. The next morning when I came around I looked at my packs and noticed that last night in the dark without my head lamp, I had dropped my pack into a fresh cow pie and it had smushed through the pouch. In the storm I had stuffed a lot of my gear into that pouch so everything was covered in cow shit. Happy Birthday to me!

 

Week 16: Red Slide Mountain, MT to Black Mountain, MT

Total Mileage:  249

 

Made it to High Divide Outfitters, owned by David Libby. The greatest little gear shop in the world!

He has everything a Hiker could want and he’s right on the trail! It sits 200 miles beyond my halfway point at Stemple Pass, so for me it was a perfect time to make some gear adjustments. New battery packs, headlamp, shoes, sun hoodie, long handle spork, body glide, trash compactor bag, gallon Ziplock and some food to get me to Helena.

A couple long 15 plus mile stretches with no water. To do the 215 miles in just over 5 days to High Divide, I had a couple massive days, pulling 40 plus with over 9,000 feet of elevation gain each day.

Unfortunately, I again beat my packages to Helena and was forced to resupply at a gas station. I finally got back on the trail late at 1:30 pm. I was able to squeak out a 25.2 followed by a 42.1 finishing just before Anaconda.

Mcdonald’s hit the spot, the grocery store had what I needed, and I set out of there at 10am Sunday morning heading out on a long road walk before going up and over a couple passes, most notably Storm Lake Pass, Cutaway Pass and Rainbow Pass.

Tough but fun hiking 🥾 and feeling healthy and good and right on my pace.

 

Week 15: Polebrige MT, to Red Slide Mountain, MT

Total Mileage: 269.9

 

After being kinda miffed about not getting my resupply boxes and knowing I now had another 300-plus miles to hike on blown out shoes, I took off from Polebridge and made it to the Ranger station. I picked aggressive distances between camps and headed in. It felt great to reach the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) on day 98.

Heading south now, I had a lot of mosquitoes and overgrown trail to deal with. Once I hiked into the middle of the park the trail conditions and maintenance were pristine. One night I could make my distance of 49 miles, so at 43 I just laid my sleeping pad on the trail and slept right there.

Hiked up and over Triple Divide Pass and by 6pm, arrived at Two-medicine campground. Crushed some snacks and talked with some dudes I had seen the day before struggling to get to the parking lot after a long day hike. Afterwards, I hiked almost until I was to East Glacier Village. I heard a huge animal jump into the river as I passed by. Guessing it was a grizzly.

After getting into East Glacier, I beat my resupply box AGAIN and had to buy my food for the next stretch. After dealing with a 5 mile blow-down section out of Marias Pass, I realized I wouldn’t have enough food and was contemplating having to hitch 30 miles into Augusta.

Luckily, in the Bob Marshal Wilderness I met some weekend hikers. One had a 100 liter pack and I knew he had some extra food. Jonathan and Melissa hooked me up with some Mountain House Meals and some other goodies and an hour later, I met another couple, Dito and Chantelle, who gave me even more food. This would be enough to get me to my next stop.

After a cruiser section through the Bob’s and some more blow downs near Cigarette Creek Trail, it rained for an hour. It felt nice, being that it was the first time in a month since I’d gotten any precipitation. I finished the week out with a solid 42.7 mile day.

 

Week 14: Colville National Forest, WA to Polebridge, MT

Total Mileage: 260.9

 

Most of the PNT is kind of predictable. Tough climbs that seem to go on forever, connected by long, exposed road walks that seem to go on forever. There are, however, a couple bushwhacks on this trail that make for some very interesting hiking.

One in particular is the Lions Head bushwhack. It is an 8 mile exposed ridgeline section of bouldering with smooth slanted rock linking the ridge together. It took a full 8 hours to do this 8 mile section. Although difficult and time consuming, this blue line (on the map) was way more fun than the red line (which I did last year).

After about a dozen more big ups and a lot more road walking, Sloppy and I made it to Eureka, Montana at 3:30 pm on Saturday. We had an 18 mile road walk in the middle of the day in 90 degree heat. Sloppy became very sick on the hike in and my stomach wasn’t feeling too great. It may have been from all the bleach we’ve been using to treat our water. Or maybe it was the jar of peanut butter I was given waaaay past it’s expiration date. As in over 6 years!

Sloppy’s parents came to visit and the next morning I took off towards Polebridge, Montana. I was hoping after breakfast with his parents, he would catch me. I received a text an hour later from him. He decided to take a zero day and rest. Can’t blame him after being that sick.

I pushed on and made it to Polebridge Monday evening. My resupply box didn’t arrive, so it looks like I’ll be doing another 300 miles on these shoes. They should have 800 on them by the time I get a new pair. I hope to see Sloppy again, he became a very good friend these last 1,500 miles and we went through a lot of crazy shit together.

Good luck Amigo, I’ll see you up the trail!✌️🥾🥾🥾

 

Week 13: Nighthawk, WA to Colville National Forest, WA

Total Miles: 282.2

 

Sending it hard on the PNT. Crazy up-hills and massive road walks.

I’m still hiking with Sloppy and we made a plan to do this section of the GWL in around 17 days, which is 3 days faster then last year. Currently we are carrying a 42.5 mile average for this section.

As hot and exposed as the road walks are, we are able to crush miles through those parts. Sometimes it’s tough though, having full days of 40 plus miles on a dirt road. I just put in the ear buds and try and limit my breaks.

Water is difficult to get to sometimes and the sources aren’t the best. I’ve been treating with bleach for the last 2 weeks. Initially, pool water was all I thought about but after so many liters of it as this point I don’t even notice.

The trail towns on the PNT have some of the nicest people. Trail Angels Josh and Jami in Northport are incredible, and it was really great to see them again. We also had breakfast paid for us by this great couple in Metaline Falls.

I feel pretty good, all things considered. I’m right on my pace and hope to be at the halfway mark around 100 days.

So much hiking left but seeing familiar faces from last year helps me up the trail.✌️🥾🥾

 

Week 12: 2022

Total Miles: 243.3

 

Made it to the Pacific Northwest Trail!

The PCT threw everything it had at me, but now I’m heading East to Glacier NP.

The snow pack went all the way to where I turned onto the PNT. In the end, it was roughly 1700 miles of snow pack hiking. Now It’s oppressive heat, road walking, mosquito’s, and insane amounts of burn area and blow-down’s. Oregon and Washington were, without a doubt, the hardest stretch of hiking I’ve ever done.

My new phone got soaked and died on me, so this is my third phone. Lost the pictures, but I’ve finally gotten the tracking up and running, so my map dots should be updating on the regular. Looking like the halfway point of the GWL in 100 days. Back to big miles which feels great. Back to back 40’s and finished the the week with a 50 mile day.

Week 11: White Pass, WA to Lake Wenatchee, WA

Total Miles: 183

Big snow right out of the gate from White Pass to Chinook Pass in the Mt. Ranier Wilderness. Sketchy snowpack  side-hilling and the final mile seemed to drag on forever.

The wonderful Katie “Captain Planet” Rapp met us there with massive Donuts and Taco Bell and mapped out an alternate route around the next section to keep us at a lower elevation.

After the big fall last week, we have tried to stay out of snow and now we have the melt to deal with. River crossings are becoming an issue. Bridges washed out and Glacier peak still too dangerous to navigate.

Our alternate routes haven’t been easy, however. A lot of overgrowth and blow-down sections have made some slow going, but finally, one more week to the PCT northern terminus!

Week 10: Crater Lake, OR to Pyramid Butte Junction, OR

Total Miles: 243.7

 

Pushing big miles north has been tough, but we’re getting there. Mt. Hood is covered in snow and they will be skiing through summer up there for first time in 30 years!

Absolutely destroyed the all you can eat breakfast buffet at the Timeberline Lodge and then hiked out across the ski slopes and down the Timberline Trail through some sketchy ravines to Ramona Falls.

Hit a lot of tough snow outside of Cascade Locks and blow down trees. With one bent trekking pole and no micro spikes it was hard going. 19.1 miles in Cascade Locks and took the rest of the day off.

FINALLY bought a new phone, set it up and set off the next morning. Just shy of 38 miles for the day, it was the first day of hiking with no snow in over 500 miles.

The last northbound PCT hikers I saw were 700 miles back and southbound PCT hikers are stuck up north due to the snow, so we have been blazing the trail and not seeing anyone.

Made it through the Goat Rocks Wilderness and the Knifes edge yesterday. Lucky enough to see a herd of elk. Had a couple falls and some extremely dangerous snow slope crossings. Basically no fall zones. After glissading down the snow bowl off the top of the mountain, I ripped my shorts. We took a low route across several streams, more blowdowns and raging snow melt rivers to arrive a highway 12 and White Pass.

Staying with friends and resting up. Back to the grind tomorrow! ✌👣👣