Week 12 Mileage: N/A

Game Over

My shoulder started bothering me a week ago. I thought it was something that would work itself out. I felt a pop while I was reaching for my phone. I dropped my pack and sat for 5 minutes. It was over at that point, and I knew it. Now the problem was getting out. I was 13 miles past the last road and on my way to nowhere. There was a ranger station 3.6 miles away. I couldn’t carry my pack. Every step was unbearable. I was hunched over like Igor from Frankenstein. The longest two miles of my life, just walking right through the river crossing, unable to rock-hop. I made it to a trail junction and saw that I had service, which I couldn’t believe. I called a friend, up ahead on the trail, and asked her if anyone was at that ranger station. She said no and that it was a remote outpost without any roads in or out. I’m a big advocate of getting yourself out if you can walk, but with my pack, there was no way. I called 911. The only way to get to me was by helicopter. They would be there in 1 hour.

I heard the chopper coming. There wasn’t any place to land, so they sent a dude down on a wire. He unhooked, came over, checked my shoulder, wrapped a quick sling around me, threw my pack on, hooked me up and gave the thumbs up. I was 200 feet in the air, dangling from a helicopter, as I just stared at the spot they had pulled me from. Too pissed off to care about the current situation, a second rescuer grabbed me and yanked me in, landing me on my shoulder. I laid there for a minute in excruciating pain as they slammed the door and took off toward the airport. An X-ray showed a clavicle separation, right where my pack strap sits. My shoulder hasn’t been 100% for years. I was just hoping it would hold out for one more record. Well, it didn’t, and that’s how it goes sometimes. You win some, you lose some. I had it. The PCT was as perfect as I could’ve hoped. The transition to the CDT was flawless. To lose it while doing so well hurts more than the shoulder. Now I’ll be in doctor’s appointments, surgery, and P.T. Not how I pictured it, but that’s the way it goes. Thank you for all the support. Sorry I couldn’t get it done.

Week 11 Mileage: 230.3

PCT Mileage: 2655.2

Canada!

The Alpine Lakes Wilderness was working me pretty good. By 8:30, I had done 9,200 feet of elevation gain and 33 miles. With a heavy pack, my legs were a little jelly-like and I was dreading a river crossing coming up. I had been thinking about this particular crossing since before I started this hike. It’s not your typical river. The map guide has it listed as a stream, but I knew this would be anything but that. With the snowpack lingering late, and the recent temperatures pushing triple digits, I knew this would be sketchy. The “stream” comes off the top of a mountain, down steep, almost like a weak angled waterfall and continues down eventually to a meadow where it becomes normal. Unfortunately, where the trail crosses, it’s abnormal. It’s also a rocky canyon. All the rocks in and around the river are sharp, angled, broken pieces of the canyon walls. Just as I expected, it was raging. Just before I crossed, I decided to put my phone in a Ziplock bag, and into a stuff sack. I wrapped my pack-top tight and cinched the strap down hard. I put my wrists through my trekking pole loops and unbuckled my chest strap (remember, I don’t have a waist belt). I took three steps into the foaming beast, got my foot hooked on a rock under the water and that threw my off balance just enough. The current took me down and I found myself swimming down this ravine. I tried not to panic. The water was cold as hell and as I kicked, I could feel my legs and knees hitting rocks underneath. I grabbed onto a boulder. After regaining my breath, pulled myself up and onto the other side. Completely soaked and shivering, I hiked another 1.5 miles and pitched my tent. I had enough for the day. Trail-1, Chezwick-0. Assessing the damage at camp, I had a good chunk taken out of my shin. It was hard to get it to stop bleeding. There was also a cut on my right shin, and I had banged my knees up a bit. I also soaked a pack of cigs and lost a half a bag of BBQ Twist Fritos. NOOOOO! That was the first time in over 20,000 trail miles I had been swept down a river, it was bound to happen.

The next day I pushed hard in the hot sun and pulled a 40-miler, passing Steven’s Pass around 3:30 and being thankful for the start of section K. The mosquitoes even seemed to calm down which helped my morale a bit. I wanted to make it into Stehekin by Monday morning and get the first shuttle into town. This would require two big 40-plus mile days and each one in the 8,000 feet of elevation gain world. I started seeing a lot of South-Bounders (SOBOS) who all thought I was finishing a section from a previous year. I was early, I am fast, but I have to be. After a 36-mile day, I followed that up with a 45.5-mile day.  The uphills were long 6-8 miles, and the trail was terribly overgrown in a lot of sections. It took me 15 minutes to cross Kennedy Creek suffering from a little PTSD from the other night. By Monday morning, I was walking the forest road to the shuttle pickup for Stehekin, 179.6 miles in 4 and a half days. A car stopped and a cute girl offered me a ride into town. Her name was Sage and she was a PCT thru-hiker from 2012. She let me shower at her place and even let me take her car to get my resupply box at the post office. Thank you!! Back on trail at 12:30, I was able to get beyond Rainy Pass and finish with a 36.5. Not bad with a 4-hour town stop. The next days, I pushed hard with a 42.4. I wanted to break 76 days on the PCT. Went to sleep just before Woody pass with 11.3 miles left to hike.

On the trail at 4:45, I wanted to touch this friggin’ monument. Four times on this trail now, and never getting to it. I met a section hiker named Jeff and we talked and hiked all the way to the end. At 8:43 am on July 17^th, I completed the Pacific Crest Trail! 75 days, 20 hours, and 49 minutes. A flat 35 mile per day average. That’s what I wanted and that’s what I got. Some blood, sweat and bullshit to get it, but there I was, tan, skinny, dirty and happy. After the typical monument photos and 15 minutes of hanging out, the celebration was over and now my focus was on getting to the CDT. As great as an accomplishment as that is, I still have 4,859.8 miles to go. Jeff offered to give me a ride to the train station the next day which made the logistics so much easier. Huge, in fact, because that would save to at least half a day of dealing with shuttles, busses and hitches. He would meet me at the hostel in Mazama the next day. The following morning, I arrived back at Harts Pass completing the 30 bonus miles back and was quickly told by a PCTA official and a forest ranger that the trail directly south was on fire. Highway 20 through Rainy Pass was closed, and no hikers were able to go into Stehekin. If I was a day and a half slower, these fires would have messed a lot of things up for me, but I crushed the PCT and all that was no longer my problem. After a shower and laundry, Jeff, who goes by the trail name “Mary Poppins”, picked me up in Mazama and at the end of week 11, I was heading to the CDT in an air-conditioned car, clean and with a full stomach. I am one lucky SOB!

Week 10 Mileage: 268.8

Wicked Hot!

I felt refreshed after my night in the hotel, but just an hour out of town I was drenched in sweat. So much for the shower. I packed out 4 days of food and had 147 miles to the White Pass Kracker Barrel, (not the restaurant chain, a convenient store.) As hot as it was, I wanted it to continue so whatever snow was left in the mountains would melt away by the time I arrived. Apparently, Washington had a below-average winter but a cold spring, so the snow lingered. Washington is harder than Oregon, longer climbs, longer descents. My goal for this state would be to do the 505 miles in under 14 days. Tough but doable with my confidence high after doing Oregon’s 457 miles in 11 days and 4 hours.

Mt. Adam’s Wilderness, Goat Rocks Wilderness, and Alpine Lakes Wilderness were my snow problem areas. Goat Rocks has a knifes edge that can be sketchy with big snow. The climb out of Cascade Locks is long and I finished from 10:20 am with a 27.8 for the day. The next day I wanted to pull something in the low to mid 40’s but the heat was working me pretty good and so were the winged devils. By 9:30 pm the mosquitoes were so bad I had to concede the day. I had 79.9 miles to make it to White Pass by 6pm on Sunday before the store closed or I’d be forced to slow down and wait until they opened Monday at 8. I didn’t like that option, so I was up, and on the trail just before 5 the next morning. The full-on assault by the mosquitoes started almost immediately, but I was wearing my rain pants and bug net. Luckily, the trail was easy for the first 12 miles. Ascending into the Mt. Adams Wilderness, the mosquitoes backed off over 6,000 feet and by 11:30, I had already done 16.8 miles. Passed the big mountain and pushing hard through the snowpack, I made it through with only a couple slips and falls and entered Goat Rocks Wilderness, going until 11:30 and finishing with a 48 for the day.

I wanted to be at the store by 5:30 so I had time to shop and eat. The only thing standing in my way were 31.9 miles. The ascent up to the ridge was completely covered in snow, something like 4 miles, but by 11:30 I was on top. Aside from a couple short sections of snow that I could see, everything looked clear. Without stopping for no more than 20 minutes in the next 15 miles, I made it to the Kracker Barrel by 5:40. The women working remembered me from two years ago, she asked me what I was up to and after telling her, she said that I couldn’t beat the guy from last year. She said it kind of matter-of-factly. That was all the motivation I needed. After resupplying and eating all the leftover hot food they were going to throw away (which I got for free), I headed out just after 7 with another 6 miles as my goal. But as I started the ascent, the mosquitoes swarmed. It was so hot, I was drenched and after only 1.7 miles, called it.

By Wednesday at 11, I had made it to Unique Pass. I resupplied for 5 days to Stehekin, met a hiker named “Maps” and took off at 2:30. This section would be my hardest since the Sierra. The Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Steep, hard hiking with multiple switchbacks. 3 hours later I was on top of the Kendall Catwalk. I could see the trail rimming along the outside of the valley and snow in a lot of spots. With a full resupply it was tough going, but as hard as it was, the views were incredible. Mt. Ranier looming in the distance, this was, and is, real deal hiking.

Other hikers ask me often how I do the miles I do, 40 through this kind of stuff. It’s hard to explain, I guess I just don’t let my legs stop moving, and every time I want to stop and rest, I just tell myself,  “the trail isn’t going to hike itself.” The days are long, but I’ve been hiking this way for a few years now and it’s becoming the only way I know.

Week 9 Mileage: 256.6

Trying to keep pace with food babies…

It took another two hours to get out of the snow and another 3 hours to get to Shelter Cove campground. It was only going to be a light 2-days resupply ( I had a box waiting north.) Luckily there was a hiker box filled with all kinds of goodies, so I indulged and grabbed 3 days-worth of food, ate some microwaved junk and a pint of ice cream, and headed out. Another 10 miles and camped for the night. This section was flat and easy. Probably the easiest section of the PCT. I was running low on cigs and figured I do a quick pit stop at Elk Lake Resort, so I pushed hard and did 34.4 miles by 5:15. Made it to the lodge and they didn’t sell cigarettes. So, I ate pork nachos. The bartender sold me a pack of his. I then proceeded to get an order of wings, which were huge. I probably shouldn’t have finished them all and instead, taken them to go. But I crushed them all and left there with my belly distended about 12 inches. I wanted another 10 miles out, but I ate way too much and just wanted to sleep, which I did.

I had 40 miles to do the next day. I needed to reach Big Lake Youth Camp no later than 9 pm, and after ending the previous day early, it was going to be a hard push. I had to Contend with Three Sisters Wilderness, which was all snow pack and slowed me down a lot. I really wanted to take a shower and do laundry at the youth camp but that wasn’t in the cards.  I just needed to grab my box. I couldn’t wait until the morning to get it. I arrived at 9:15. 40.8 miles.

My next stop for Oregon would be Ollalie Campground. This would mean some sketchy hiking past 3 Finger Jack and some burn areas, and some significant snowpack. 3 Sisters had a lot of snow, but it’s relatively flat. This section had trail sections cut out of the side of mountains. Falling wouldn’t be good. As I started getting into this section, I passed a tent and a guy came running out to me saying that his friend had to turn around up ahead because she said “Ice axe and crampons mandatory. To fall would be certain death!” I thanked him for the warning and pushed on. There were tough sections, and a casual hiker would probably think that way.  I just wish I could have done more than 3 miles in 2 hours. I also kept losing the trail. Part of the reason for pushing the pace so hard through this section was to make it to the Timberline Lodge for their AYCE buffet. And if my timing was on, I’d arrive almost exactly at the end of month 2. A great place to finish.

Getting to Ollallie’s was 13.4 miles, by 10:45 am I was there. I had 24 hours and 51 miles to go. I remembered from previous years that this section north to the lodge was an absolute cruiser, like a 50-mile version of Whittaker Woods. I finished at 11:30 with a 48.5, and 16.3 miles left in the morning.

Made it to Mt. Hood by 11am. Crushed 5 plates of the buffet and after hiking across the still open ski area trail, I made it about 5 miles before needing a power nap on the side of the trail. From there I went another 15 miles to end with a 37.

The following day was tough. I had 31.6 miles to make it to Cascade Locks, build a resupply box for the tiny town of Stehekin in Northern Washington, and send it out before the post office closed. It was July 3^rd, and they would be closed the next day. I pushed hard and did it. Got the box sent and grabbed some new shoes. I even stayed at a hotel in town. I figured it was time for a shower and laundry. It had been 12 days and a month since I slept in a bed. But shit, 11 days 4 hours and 30 minutes to hike Oregon. Very happy with that! 40.2 mpd average.

Week 8 Mileage: 274.7

Total PCT Mileage: 1897.5

Winged Devils!

I wanted to get to Seiad Valley in the morning. This would require 27.8 miles to a campsite just before the start of the road that led into town. It was 1 pm. Luckily, after about 6 miles the trail would go down for a long time. Not a big fan of this section, a lot of burn areas with blowdowns, a lot of overgrowth. Just a section of trail that doesn’t get a lot of maintenance. Last time through here I picked 7 ticks off me and got poison ivy on my pecker. I wasn’t looking forward to this.

I Pushed hard and arrived at 11:30 pm, sleeping by midnight. The next day, got into town, grabbed my new shoes, ate a big breakfast, showered, laundered and did a 2 day resupply. This climb out is always tough. 6-plus miles of switch backs, not much shade and water sources spread out between 3-8 miles. Of course, it was 11 am when I started making my way up the hill, and of course I blew past the first water source, not realizing it until I was too far past. With 2 sips of water left, I made it to the spring. Unfortunately it was trickling out weaker than Tom Hanks bladder infection in The Green Mile. Cooking under the sun, I finally filled and pushed hard to get 33-plusmiles and make it to Alex Hole Spring by 10:30. I was picking up my next box at Callahan’s Lodge, a nice hotel a mile off trail near Ashland, OR. I arrived at the California/ Oregon border just past 9 am on the tail end if my 50th day on trail. Almost 1,700 miles in 50 days, not bad.

34.4 miles to Callahan’s by 8 pm. I grabbed my box and did another 4 miles out. No snow now. I was able to crush miles getting into the 40’s. Crater Lake had my box, but they still got me for 15 bucks on deet. Out of there, I hit snow up high around the lake and cruised down to lower elevation with a 38 for the day. Into the Mt. Thielsen Wilderness, I got snow again for 12 miles. The snowpack level seems to be lingering around 5,800 feet. Half my days through this section are spent in snow but I’m able to make up miles on the low stuff. I’ve been dealing with the holy trinity of bullshit in this area, snow, blowdowns, and winged devils. Mosquitoes are starting to become a nuisance, but they do make me hike faster, not wanting to stop. I pushed hard into Diamond Peak Wilderness and ended my week with my highest mileage so far. Now it’s on to Shelter Cove for a resupply and the rest of Oregon.

California Stats

• 1692.8 miles
• 33.3 MPD avg
• Resupplies: 14
• Showers: 7
• Laundry: 6 times
• Water Treatment: 6 times
• Shoes: 3 pairs
• Cigs: 24 packs
• Nero Days: 2
• Zero Days: 0

Week 7 Mileage: 267.4

NO JUNK FOOD! …but they had cigs

This section I needed to crush. It was flat-ish through Burney Falls, and I really could make up some miles. It’s a high desert, so water isn’t plentiful, but the easy terrain meant I could get to the next source quick. Pulling big miles into Old Station, I charged my stuff, ate, filled my h20 and headed out. Finished with a 41.5-mile day. I didn’t sleep well. Cowboy camping with mosquitos buzzing is tough and I gelt it the next day. 4 hours of sleep after 40 miles isn’t ideal. After a couple days, I arrived at Burney Mountain Guest Ranch, a new spot on the trail in a good location between Old Station and Burney Falls. I met the owners and resupplied. They had a saltwater swimming pool and all kinds of amenities. The owner gave me some sun block, chips and guacamole and by 6:15, I was on my way. Didn’t make it more than 6 miles again and crashed. I’ve got to start hiking later.

Other than some overgrown sections of trail and ripping my puffy, I made it smoothly to the highway leading into Mt. Shasta at 6:30 am, did a 2-mile road walk and resupplied at Ameratti’s Market. I wanted something different than hiker food. Shitty gas station food was my plan; hot dogs, foil wrapped breakfast sandwiches. Any of that overprocessed American crap that causes cancer and makes everyone fat. BRING IT ON! They had none of that. Nothing, not even microwave burritos. I was very disappointed.  I probably stopped at the only convenience store in the whole country without any of that food. I settled for a loaf of bread and made pb&j’s.

Back on trail, with a 10 mile climb and 155 miles to Seiad Valley. It was hot, I had a full resupply. It went on and on forever. I do like this section of trail, it’s kinda like the Sierra with no snow. Scree rock and switchbacks, the trail leading up and over passes that aren’t too bad. Biggest week yet!

Week 6 Mileage: 236.4

Burn zones, straw grass and rotisserie chicken….

Okay, so just barely getting 200 miles in a week was starting to irritate me. Yeah sure, the snow had been slowing me down, but c’mon, I needed a break and I needed a big week. I was hoping I had taken enough food from Kennedy Meadows North to make it to Sierra City, a small town only a mile off trail. But the snow not only caused me to not make my miles, but to burn more calories and eat more food. I was going into Truckee after muscling my way over Squaw Valley Ski Resort and Sugar Bowl. I arrived at Donner Pass just after noon. (Yes, the pass is named after the cannibal family, that’s where it happened.) I hitched in, went straight to the Safe Way, grabbed a ready to eat rotisserie chicken, a sushi roll, 3 large donuts, a pint of B& J’s and a quart of milk. I sat in the shade on the sidewalk and mowed. Took a quick power nap, resupplied, grabbed new socks at the outfitter and was back on trail by 4.

The trail was snow-free until I crossed the interstate and then it started again. Rather than trying to follow the trail under the snow, I did a lot of ‘as the crow flies’ routes. Bee-lining it down to where the trail would cross a river. The next day at 6 pm I made it to Sierra city. I didn’t go in, just ate and talked with ” Half Step” a New Hampshire dude whose wife was meeting him up the trail. She arrived, gave me a Pepsi and 3 oranges, and I was off. 7.8 mile uphill, snow-free, then 3 miles downhill, snow-filled. I called it after a 40 mile day and pitched my tent.

I wasn’t going to make it to Belden before their store closed so I took a detour off the trail at Bucks Lake, had some food, charged my stuff, and headed out. The burn areas were starting to get bad from the 2021 fires. Blowdowns, loose rock and soot everywhere. Any tree or rock I’d touch would get my hands black. The trail had a lot of overgrowth heading down into Velden but I made it there by 8:30 am. There were 2 hikers hanging outside the bar, drinking Modelo’s, smoking cigarettes and nursing a hangover. “Camel” from France and “Bookeeper” from Ohio. I talked with them for a bit then headed out. I’m not a big fan of this section. Once I crossed the road, I had a 14-mile uphill, made worse by the fact that it was getting into the hot part of the day and because of the forest fires from ’21, no shade. Also, the straw grass kept sticking into my socks and I would have to stop periodically and pull them out. I finally made it to the top to find snowpack, which caused me to slip and fell 15 feet. From there, the trail was a twisting mess of slowdowns and burn. The next morning, I arrived at the PCT halfway point. 40.5 days, 1,324 miles. I didn’t stick around, I needed to get to Chester. Between the deet and sun block, all the dust and soot had caked onto me, and after 10 days I desperately needed a shower. After hitching in, I showered, put my laundry in and headed to the market. Grabbed lunch and resupplied, not just for the upcoming stretch but for Oregon as well. I headed over to the post office and got my package. 3 pairs of shoes, a new sun hoodie and an inflatable pillow. I sent 3 pairs of shoes up the trail and separate boxes of food to spots along the trail. This would save me time and money later on. After getting back on trail at 5 pm I was tired. I had high hopes of doing 12-15 miles out of Chester, but after 6.5, I pitched my tent and died.

I woke up refreshed and was able to make good miles to finish out the week. Not the 35 average I was hoping for but close. I’m gaining.

40 days, 20 hours, 38 minutes

Week 5 Mileage: 200

A Bunch of Aunts, a Bunch of Calories…and Yes, Snow

I had 16.7 miles to make it to Donahue Pass and enter Yosemite. Normally not difficult from 1pm, but these weren’t normal conditions. Standing between me and the entry point was Island Pass. I would consider this one of the easier passes, add in the snow however, and it becomes a tough slog. After losing the trail more times than I can count, I arrived at the top of Donahue at 8:30 pm and carefully made my way down the north side, following footprints.  The snow was deep, with every step sinking down to my knee. I camped next to a pond 36 miles into my day.

Yosemite was a ghost town except for the winged devils (mosquitoes) that have decided to make their presents known. Apparently, Yosemite suffered a lot of damage due to last year’s record snow and they still were dealing with it; hence the late opening. Cruising through Tuolumne Meadows, I was moving pretty well, taking advantage of the nonexistent snowpack, but it soon returned, and my pace was slowed. Passed a couple who were turning around because they thought the rivers were too dangerous to cross. I arrived at the river an hour later. Raging, sure, impassable, no. The next one was worse and the one after that even sketchier. I passed a hiker named ” Smash” who started April 22. He said I was the first person to pass him. I also Passed a Czech guy named “2 Packs.” They camped a couple miles before Benson Pass.  I still had a few hours and I used all of them to reach the top. Snowpack and switchbacks down.  I finally found a dry spot to pitch my tent for the night.

The next day’s goal was Dorothy Lake Pass, which is the northern boundary of Yosemite. There was a lot of rivers to cross. Steep, snow covered switchbacks to navigate and of course, no trail blazes. Because VVR had burned me on the charging station I had to be very careful with my phone usage until Sonora Pass. No music, podcasts and only navigation if I absolutely needed it (which was a lot of the time.) I had a windy, cold night at Dorothy and woke up early. I had 19.7 miles to go, with 19% battery left and 7 packets of oatmeal and one pack of Ramen. After some great ups and downs, some glissades and foot sliding, I reached Sonora at 2:30. Got a hitch from some bike packers in a sprinter van. She rode the brakes the whole way down this sketchy road, and we arrived at 3 pm.

I was Starving! Here’s my food rundown for the 19 hours I was at Kennedy Meadows North: 2 string cheeses, a Starbucks Frappuccino, bag of Doritos, PCT Triple cheeseburger w/ fries, a coke, ice cream sandwich, “Bomb” burrito, 24 Oz prime rib w/ baked potato, corn, 2 rolls, an Indian pudding, root beer, 2 eggs, home fries, 2 pieces of toast, 2 cups of coffee, and a V8 juice. Yeah, that’s about it.

All the ladies there took great care of this emaciated, hairy hiker. Suzy gave me extra fries and rolls. Carrol gave me an extra shower token and antibiotic lotion for my sun burn. Bonnie gave me my own room to check in early. Barbie packed my ice axe and bear canister to send home, and uncle Gary and Aunt Sandy got me on the shuttle. I love this place. Also, they are a pack station with horses, so cowboys and cowgirls were around.  Sara from Louisiana rubbed apple cider vinegar on my cracked and blistered ankles. Outwardly I was acting calm, inwardly, I was crying like a 2-year-old who just lost their binky. I think she may have had the hots for me. LOL.  I mean c’mon, I’m 6’3″ 110 pounds with a scraggly beard.

My shoes were done, blown out by the Sierra. It wouldn’t be for more than 300 miles before I picked up my new pair. They happened to have some for sale. My size, and cheap. A pair of Brooks Cascadia for $60. They retail for $150.

Back on the trail at 11am. More snow, but able to follow footprints. I caught the German named “Smokey Bear” that night at camp. And then again, the next night, after taking the wrong turn down a canyon. After some hard days, I finished the week, again just over 200 miles. Soon I’ll be out of snow until Oregon and picking up my pace!

Week 4 Mileage: 200.5

No Bridges, No Food

I had to do the reroute from memory. I’d follow the Darwin Bench Trail for a mile until it ended, then make my way through the pass. There were 2 lakes I’d split, then navigate up a boulder field and onto a plateau. From there, make my way around a lake and ascend the pass. There wasn’t too much snow in the middle of all this and the pass didn’t look too intimidating until I got close. I had to scramble along some rocks because there wasn’t any room between them and the lake to safely walk. I used my ice axe to hike the snowfield leading to the pass. From there, up about 75 feet, scramble another 100 through rocks, and another 50 to the top. Then it was straight off the front to a glissade, traverse 200 yards left, another glissade, and a short hike down to another lake. From there, I hiked another hour to reach Piute Creek Trail and followed that 10 miles to rejoin the PCT. A lot of streams, creeks, and rivers to ford, some rushing pretty good, and I made it back by 8:30. I was curious to see how badly damaged the bridge was and you can image my astonishment when I arrived there to see it completely intact. Had they replaced the bridge since I left Kennedy Meadows? I was pissed. I had just lost half a day and eaten more of my food. The wind was completely taken out of my sails and instead of pushing on another 3 miles, I pitched my tent and just wanted to forget about the day.

Woke up still annoyed about the bridge thing and within 10 minutes, missed a trail junction and ended up .6 miles off trail. I hiked up a steep hill and rejoined it. While changing out of my warm gear, (I wear pants to start in the morning when it’s cold) a fellow hiker arrived. A Czech guy named Jan. I told him how I couldn’t believe the bridge was already replaced. He told me that was the wrong bridge. Wow, did I feel stupid! So, it was on to VVR (Vermilion Valley Resort). I needed food. I only had 5 packs of oatmeal and 1 Snicker’s Bar for 30 miles. I made it by 5:30 but was feeling pretty rough by then. I ate 2 huge plates of food, resupplied and camped there for the night. Met a few hikers. One named “Die Hard” who took pity on my lack of cigarettes, being that VVR did not have any, and gave me some of his.

I left at 6 AM. The charging station was turned off at 10 PM the night before so my phone and power banks didn’t have a lot of juice. It was going to be tough for the 4.5 days to Kennedy Meadows North. After 6.7 miles of side trail to get back to the PCT, I eventually started my assault of Selden Pass. It was a long slog; post-holing, slipping, sliding through sun cups all the way to the top. It took over 5 hours to do less than 10 miles. but that’s how it went. Over Solver Pass that way too. By the time the week was winding down, I was spent. Trying to carry a 30- mile average through this snow was tough, and I needed to get, at the very least, 200 miles for the week. The next morning, I was up and on the trail at 5. Everything was going relatively smooth until mile 912.2. The big bridge was severely damaged. I hadn’t even bothered to look at my map ahead. I just assumed I had already passed the bridge that was out. I guess there were 2. I had two options: hike back 3 miles and take a long road alternate, or shimmy across what was left of this bridge. I chose the latter. I put all my electronics in a plastic bag and in my bear can, sinched my pack up high and shimmied across the thing. I ripped my shirt, got a couple splinters and some rubbing burns on my knees, but I made it across. After 5 minutes of gathering myself, I was pushing hard up the trail. The clock was ticking, and I needed to make 200. The last bit of trail was switchbacks uphill with a lot of slowdowns. This trail is fighting me for every mile! I ended with 200.5 and took a 1-hour break. That section really kicked my ass.

Week 4 Mileage: 200.5

Snowpack, Reroute and No Food

To finish up week 3, I left Kennedy Meadows (South) and started back up the trail at 6:15 am. My pack was the heaviest it’s going to be. Adding my bear canister, ice axe, micro spikes, 6 days of food and 3 packs of cigarettes, it weighed in at just about 30 pounds. That might not seem like a lot, but I don’t use a waist belt and I’m doing big miles. Finishing out the week at the Kern River and Monache Pass, I closed with 254.5 miles for the week. Solid for the desert, but I knew those numbers weren’t going to be attainable for this next section.

From here I had about 8,000 feet of elevation gain to do. The trail twisted and turned up, then down, and then up again. I ended the day with a 32.9.  Camp was above 10,000 feet and I paid for it with cold. I’ve lost some down since my last hike so I would venture to guess my sleeping bag is more like a 30 degree than a 10 degree now. The following day I started to hit sporadic sections of snowpack. Trying to avoid them only added to my day when the trail went left, and I went right. I must remember to not do that. Finished with a 34.9 just before a river and had 9.7 miles in the morning to get to the top of Forester Pass — the first and the highest through this stretch. My shoes and socks were frozen in the morning. Ahh, the joys of thru hiking! The last two times I’ve hiked the Sierra, ’21 & ’22, the snowpack would start between 1-2 miles before each pass and continue another 1-2 miles after each one. This time it was 5-6 miles. I hoped that maybe it was just this Forester section. For now, however, it was a long, painful slog to the top. I passed about 8 hikers on my way up and we all converged on top. One dude, “Lost Boy”,  was also doing a triple crown hike. Not for any record, but he added the AZT in between the AT and the PCT.  I’d been hearing about him for a while, and finally caught the man. He looked a little beat, and when I lit a cigarette he said, ” hey man, I’ll give you all my food for one of those!”.  I gave him 2 and didn’t take any food, which I will later regret.

Off the top, down into the Valley. More snow, creek crossings and route finding. Slow going and I was limited to about 2 miles per hour, .7 off my normal pace. After having lunch with that crew, “Lost Boy” mentioned that VVR was open (Vermilion Valley Resort). It’s a campground resupply in the Sierra about 7 miles off trail. It’s about 25 miles before Mammoth and I figured if the snowpack continued like this, I might need food sooner than I packed for. I left and headed for Glen Pass, about 8 miles away. The snow continued. Post-holing through sun cups in the middle of the day is rough. Slipping, sliding, tripping, falling. It’s so hard to get a rhythm and pace. Like hiking in Pennsyltucky, but instead of annoying rocks it’s collapsible snow bowls. After a steep ascent up the final pitch with some loose rock and scree and snow, I reached the top of Glen Pass at 5:30 pm. The descent of this one is always the most nerve racking. It’s about 200 yards off the top along a 70-degree snow slope with a 1,000 foot run out to a lake. This would be considered a NO-FALL ZONE. After 15 minutes, I was across and down. Feeling good as I approached the bottom, I stepped too close to a rock and my leg went down 3 feet into a hole, banging my shin and cutting my leg. After a few choice words, I made it to another rock to sit. I looked up and watched for 5 minutes as another hiker made the sketchy descent off Glen. Then I was off again, post-holing, river crossing, slipping and sliding my way to camp. The trail in this section is great when there isn’t a lot of snow, it weaves onto little islands that you’re meandering through for miles. It’s really hard to navigate when the trail in covered 80% of the time. By 9:30, I was wrecked. I didn’t even make 30 miles, but in the Sierra, you got what the trail will give you. I was 10 miles from Pinchot Pass.

I was up early. Pinchot isn’t a technical pass. Actually, it’s one of the easiest in my opinion, and after 5 long hours I was on top and moving along towards my favorite Pass, Mather. Approaching it, I could see a lot of snow on the South face. The trail does this long, sweeping line around the base and weaves switchbacks to the top. However, it was all covered in snow and that didn’t seem like the right approach this time. As I got closer to the base, I saw 5 hikers chatting. They flagged me down. They were discussing whether they should do the pass at that time or wait until the morning. I told them I was going then. They also asked me what I was going to do about the bridge washout at mile 254. I told them about Skurka’s Over the Top Route. They said from what they heard it was very dangerous and hikers who had attempted it were forced to turn around. They showed me this alternate route starting at Darwin Bench trail head at mile 251. It looked good. I committed it to memory, told them good luck and headed for the pass. They asked me how long I thought it would take.  I said an hour. The line I chose was direct — about 300 feet straight up and then it cuts to the right onto the first rocks. Scramble up 20 feet and traverse right. From there, directly up 100 feet, traverse another 50, and 30 more to the top. I was there in 30 minutes. I gave them a wave from the top and glissaded a few times down and off. Then a couple 100-foot butt slides to celebrate the later day accomplishment. Also, looking down through the valley, I could see the snow FINALLY letting up. Between that and having a safer reroute due to the washout,  I was in good spirits and finished the day just shy of 32 miles and 2 mountain passes.

On the trail at 5 a.m., I was 10 miles from Muir Pass and 17 from the reroute. It was going to be a big day. Muir isn’t my favorite pass. Yes it has a stone hut at the top that hikers clam bake in, but it’s a long-ass slog to it. The snow did end for a total of 13 miles through the valley so that was nice, but it returned for Muir and didn’t end until I reached Darwin Bench Trail and the reroute alternate.

TBC in Week 4, Part 2

Week 3 Mileage: 254.5

Ups, Downs and Friggin’ Wind

I’m writing this before the end of my week. The reason being, is that I’m at Kennedy Meadows just before the start of the Sierra and I will not have service until I reach Mammoth Lakes, CA (about 6 days.) The mileage total for this week will be plugged in then.

Anyway, after Bear Springs I pushed really hard through this section trying to make it to Hiker Town in East bum fuck dessert land to resupply. The trail would twist and turn up and down huge mountains all day. The sun was cooking me but I was able to pull a solid 38 for the day. Friday at 4pm I reached my destination where about 25 hikers were chilling out. I got a shuttle to the  market and after dropping $150 on 5 days worth of food and a double cheeseburger with roast beef sub on the side, I headed back, packed up and left with about 12 other hikers. This stretch leading out of  Hiker Town follows the L.A. aqueduct for a bit then peels off east towards this enormous windmill farm. It’s popular to do this section at night due to the exposure. The other 12 hiked on, to the next water source 17 miles out, but I only did 6 miles finishing with 37 for the day.

Early the next morning, I hiked hard, being blasted by wind all the way to Tehachapi, CA. My tent collapsed on me in the middle of the night but I was too tired to fix it, so I just slept, buried in my tent for 3 hours. The next morning I crossed the interstate and did the big climb out. Once at the top, the trail was a cruiser downhill for a while and I was able to hike late and do a 39. I had hiked a Portion with a cool Norwegian named “Kachow.”

Water sources are just okay, I’m comfortable doing 10 miles with 2 liters now. Making it to a spring the next morning, I reevaluated my food. It was low and I was over a 100 miles from Kennedy meadows. After huge wind blowing me around all day, and two 15-plus mile water carries, I arrived at Birds Spring Pass. There was a water cache, but no food. I mentioned this to a guy and he said he had plenty of food and was getting off the next day. He loaded me up. I was also running low on T.P. The cache had some and I was so relieved (no pun intended). I had been worried that one of my socks was going to have to become my toilet paper. I finished at the top of a mountain, wind whipping, tent again collapsing. Without much sleep, I was on the trail at 5:30 a.m.

Eating breakfast on the side of the trail at 7:30, I met a Brazilian named Bruno. Cool dude living in Amsterdam. We hiked most of the day together. I finished with 38 miles and woke up and was on the trail at 4:30 am. I had 29 miles to do to before arriving at Kennedy Meadows before the store and grill closed at 5. I made it by 3:30. I replaced my shoes for the first time after doing about 703.2 miles in just over 20 days. My average being 34.7 up to this point.

I have my axe, micro spikes and bear canister now. 6 days of food and 202 miles to get through the first half of the Sierra. Everything feels good, and I just found out a bridge is washed out at mile 850. Not sure how I’m going to get across, but I’ll deal with that when I get there. Just so you all know, I won’t be able to update my location for a while because of the no-service thing. Adios!

Week 1 Mileage: 215

Sore Feet, Sore Knees

After a great stay with “Scout” and “Frodo” in San Diego, I hopped on the shuttle and headed to the border. Met a couple thru hiker dudes, “Ghost” and “Nancy Drew” who knew a friend of mine. After getting our permits checked by the PCTA fuzz at the border I set my GPS and headed out on May 2nd at 11:54 am. It was a hot day down there, but we pushed hard and were able to knock out 20 miles. The temperature dropped and my tent was wet from the dew. The other guys had decided to cowboy camp and I don’t think they slept too good that first night.

After saying goodbye to them, I head out of camp at 5:30 AM. My feet were sore from the first day and that continued for the next 5 days. The break in period for my thru hikes always seem to take forever. My brain is saying “Go Go Go!”. My body on the other hand, is saying “Go Fuck Yourself!” First full day ended with a 36.9 mile day.

Into Mt. Laguna for some microwaved burritos and chocolate milk. An old timer said a storm was coming the following day so I pushed hard out of there. Made it to the road crossing for Julian, CA the following afternoon and after a solid pull up and out, I arrived at the PCT campsite at 8 pm. Camped with a YouTuber named Rosa, who told me I should have a channel. I told her I have enough trouble trying to figure out Instagram and went to sleep. The rain came in the morning and as I hiked from there, the wind picked up hard. Blowing 50 mph with rain, the temperature dropped significantly. The storm ended by 10 and after changing my socks and breaking my headphones, I made it to Warner Springs by 1 PM. Hitched to the gas station, ate some more pleasant microwaved food, bought a 3-day resupply and headed out. Met up with a kid who started on the same day as me, a Mormon from Utah named Alec. He asked if he could hike with me, I said,  “sure, as long as cigarette smoke and swearing like a truck driver doesn’t bother you”.  After 32 that day we called it. The following day was complete sun exposure in the desert and a late finish just before the approach up to Mt. San Jacinto.

The next morning, while looking at the next 30 miles, I realized the only water sources on the trail were going to be 1 mile down ravines, off the trail. We opted to carry the 2 1/2 liters we each had for the next 20 miles. Slowdowns, loose rock and snow pack made for an extremely tough 28.7 mile day. We camped at 9,000 ft and the next morning, skirted the summit. Crossing a river, I slipped on an ice-covered rock and sent my phone flying out of my strap pocket, into the river. Gone — or so I thought. As I preceded to scream every expletive in the book, Alec reached his hand into a little whirlpool and found my phone! The waterproof case held up. The only damage done was that this poor kid was going to have to answer to Joseph Smith on Judgment day about why he decided to hike with me.

Finding out about a Noro Virus outbreak up ahead on the trail and my knees screaming from the snow-packed downhills, we made the decision to Uber into Banning, CA and get a hotel, resupply, and get some In and Out Burger.

Clean and recharged, we were back on the trail by 9 the next morning and finished out the week a bit before Mission Creek at 215 miles. Just over a 30 mile average. It certainly isn’t a record breaking week, but soon the break-in process will be over and the big miles will start.

Stay tuned for weekly updates. You can follow my progress on the map.