The Man

I am Chezwick, an avid outdoorsman with a passion for long distance hiking.

About Me

The Mission

To hike the 7000 mile Great Western Loop between April and November 2022.

Great Western Loop

The Motivation

Raise money for my foundation which provides clean water to communities in need.

Fill It Up Foundation

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About the Hike

The Great Western Loop

The Great Western Loop

The Great Western Loop is a 6,875-mile (11,064 km) hiking route that passes through several states of the Western US and links together five established long-distance hiking trails: the Pacific Crest Trail, Pacific Northwest Trail, Continental Divide Trail, Grand Enchantment Trail, and Arizona Trail.

I plan to walk the Great Western Loop, a feat that only two others have achieved. I will average 33 miles per day, including miles across the Sonoran and Mojave deserts, a segment of the trail that provides one of the greatest obstacles: access to clean drinking water. Rusty pipes, cattle troughs, and stagnant water will be a daily reality for me much like that faced by 11% of the world population that does not have access to clean drinking water.

Stats

Trail Clock

197

Days

11

Hours

5

Minutes

Total Time

197 Days, 11 Hours, 5 Minutes

Mileage

Month 1 (30 days) - 1,018.1 (33.9 average miles per day)

Month 2 (31 days)- 1,021.3 (32.9 average miles per day)

Month 3 (30 days) - 1,025.1 (34.1 average miles per day)

Month 4 (31 days) - 1,157.5 (37.3 average miles per day)

Month 5 (31 days) - 1.097.7 (35.4 average miles per day)

Month 6 (30 days) - 982 (32.7 average miles per day)

Month 7 (14 days) - 573.3 (40.95 average miles per day)

Days Without Rain

165

Map

Taco Comfort Solutions and Chezwick. Walking for water awareness.

Fill It Up Foundation

Fill It Up Foundation

790 million people! 790 million people (11% of the world's population) do not have access to a clean water supply. It's 2021 and while people complain about what so-and-so posted on Facebook or are busy writing a one-star restaurant review on Yelp because there was too much dressing on their Mediterranean couscous salad, these are insignificant first world problems in comparison and lack of access to clean, drinkable water, necessary for human survival. We don’t think twice about this in our normal lives. We go out to dinner with a group of people and there is always that person who just orders a round of water for the table, whether we want it or not. Most don’t drink it, let alone finish it, and once we leave the table, our server dumps it down the drain. Water is free and plentiful for us, why should we care? We were born in a place that has it all set up for us. This is the hand we were dealt. Others not so lucky, no fault of their own, just the way it goes. This crisis does not receive nearly enough attention. Maybe it’s because people don’t know this statistic, maybe it’s a case of out of sight out of mind, regardless of what it is, it is.

I’m just a guy who likes to hike, but as someone living in a first world country, I have something that these 800 million people don’t -- a faucet. I can stop at a number of stores and choose any number of beverages at any time. I clean my clothes and dishes without question. I can brush my teeth and take showers at will. Imagine if the only way to do any of that would first include a 5-mile walk in the morning to the only water source around and, upon arrival, the water source is crowded with several dozen people all trying to get their water for the day. The area around the water source is covered with trash and feces, the water itself not clean, and once you have filled up, loaded up, and drank up, you turn around and walk the same 5 miles you just did, back to your village to cook, clean, and use that water for everything throughout the day. Whether it’s clean or not, you don’t have a choice, that’s just the way it is.

I have chosen to partner my charity, the Fill It Up Foundation, with the Chris Long Foundation and its Waterboys initiative, which is dedicated to raising funds and awareness to bring clean water to communities in East Africa and works to fund the building of clean water wells through WorldServe International. Not being a rich man, I can’t just go around the world building wells in all these places (although if I could, I would), but raising money and spreading awareness is something I can do. There is that saying, “I’m not here for a long time, I’m here for a good time.” I agree, but on top of that, let us help as many people who are less fortunate before we go. These villages will benefit from clean drinking water long after we’re gone.

Posts from the Trail

Back Once Again

I’m going for it again!

After breaking my foot 4,800 miles into the loop last year, I’m starting on April 19th from Nothing, Arizona and redoing the entire hike that has basically consumed my life since I first decided to do it over 3 years ago.

Everything has been updated for speed. Better pack, 5 day food carries, and all the same pairs of shoes (I have 13).

It’s another dry year out west and the forest fires are going to start early. I worked hard all winter in preparation for this and I’m more confident in my abilities now. My overall mile average per day was 33.6 and I’m confident I can get up to 35 as long as I can stay healthy.

I have incredible sponsors behind me, Taco Comfort Solutions, Nashville Pack, Eastern Mountain Sports, Darn Tough Vermont and Ransome Multimedia. With their help and the support of my friends and family, I know I can get this done!

 

Week 1: Nothing, AZ to Indio, CA

Total Miles 256.2

 

Good solid start!

Only one blister so far! The heat took a few days to get used to, but overall my body is handling it very well.

I decided to go south from Alamo Lake to Wendon, Az and west from there.

I’ve only encountered two natural water sources in this whole section, it’s so dry!

I ditched my tent and sent gear ahead to give me as light of a pack as possible for some huge water carries.

Been sleeping under the stars. Keeping my eye out for those scorpions😬

 

Week 2: Indio, CA to (north of) Aqua Dulce, CA

Total Miles 266.3

 

Back on the PCT!

After the grueling I-10 stretch and big water carries along powerline dirt roads and desert, reaching the single track trail of the PCT has been such a welcome change! So many more hikers from last year and a ton of internationals (a lot of Germans.)

Last year the hiker bubble was somewhere around Tehachapi. However, this year it seems to be never ending from Cajon Pass to Hikertown and north. It’s been a real enjoyable experience to meet so many people from different walks of life doing this incredible trek, most notably “Cheese” from Maine and “Catmandu” from the Cascades.

I would really like to keep my pace up until Kennedy Meadows, sometimes it’s hard though, I do miss the camaraderie the trail provides. The forced pace of the Loop doesn’t allow for that, so until I decide to do a less demanding trail, it looks like I’ll be on my own for quite sometime. I guess to sum up this post, this is what I signed up for and I’m going to send it as hard as I can for as long as I can!

I’m pushing a good pace and everything feels good considering 40 mile days without stretching😬.

I’ll be in Kennedy Meadows a week from today. I’m pushing hard through this easy section because I’m really not sure what to expect for snow. Bringing my Ice Axe this time.

Sorry for the lack of pics, I don’t stop much on big mile days but I’ll try and do better for next week.✌🥾🥾

 

Week 3: Aqua Dulce, CA to Kennedy Meadows, CA

Total Miles 225.1

 

What a crazy week.

Met more incredible people, didn’t receive my resupply box and my knee started to bother me. So I…. hung out with incredible people, bought a resupply and took my only rest day of the trail in Mojave, CA.

Ate a ton of food, had my knee worked on and took 3 showers. Definitely a zero day I wont soon forget.

My mileage was up to my average at 225.1 for the week but overall in 3 weeks, just a shade under 750. Right where I wanted to be.

Adapting to situations on the trail is something I thrive on, and this week threw some things at me, but I’m on pace. It was earlier than my rest day last year, but I couldn’t go into the Sierra with my knee that way.

At Kennedy Meadows now, leaving after this post and hoping to arrive in Mammoth in 6 days.✌🥾🥾

 

Week 4: Kennedy Meadows, CA to Mammoth Lakes, CA

Total Miles 217.5

 

After arriving at Kennedy Meadows, I took 3 hours to prepare for the Sierra section. I Charged my stuff, ate a bunch, got my ice axe and bear canister, and reorganized my pack. I took off up the trail at 4pm.

I wanted to do the 201.1 miles to Mammoth Lakes Pass faster than I did it last year–under 6 days.

I did 11.5 miles out that evening from Kennedy Meadows. The following day 38 miles, about 2 miles before the entrance to Sequoia National Park.

The next day I entered into the high mountains and started dealing with the snow pack which was significant. There had been a recent storm so any part of the trail above 10,500 feet was covered. I topped out on Forester Pass (13,200) at 6pm. Getting down was tough but I pushed hard and made camp 35.5 miles in for the day.

Looking at what was ahead I saw that I was only 4.1 miles from the top of Glen pass and 16 miles from Pinchot Pass and another 9.7 from Mather Pass. I decided to do all three in one day. This was one of my greatest hiking days. I felt so strong, I just fuckin sent it! Pushing hard nonstop for 16 hours. Had to bring out the ice axe for a sketchy, steep section. Post-holed a lot, but did all 3 passes and finished with a 32.4.

The following day I went over Muir Pass with 3 miles of snow on each side and camped 37.2 miles in for the day.

On Sunday I was running really low on food, so I had no choice but to pull a 48 miler and get as close to Mammoth as I could. Went up and over Seldon and Silver Pass, ate my last BOBO’S oat bite at 7:30 pm and still had 15 miles to go to make it to Mammoth Lakes Pass. I finished at 12:45 am and camped on the side trail leading to Mammoth.

7 mountain passes, 201.1 miles, 5 days, 9 hours, and 45 minutes. A 37.5 mile overall average. By far the greatest hiking achievement of my career. The conditions were tough and I still have 2-300 miles of snow pack to deal with.

Took a rest day in Mammoth, ate my face off and now I’m going back for more pain😄. Going to see if I can reach Tahoe in 5 days, it’s about 185 miles.✌🥾🥾

 

Week 5: Mammoth Lakes, CA to Desolation Wilderness, CA

Total Miles 211.4

 

What a crazy week!

After leaving Mammoth the snow continued. Losing the trail constantly became normal and the snow melt made the river crossings very hard. My feet have been wet for 7 straight days – LOL.

I met up with another guy in Yosemite named “Sloppy Joe” who is also doing the Loop and we hiked through that section together. We must have crossed 25 rivers on that day. At 10 pm, we crossed a river above our waistline and not knowing how deep it was going to be made it that much more sketchy.

After arriving at Kennedy Meadows North, pulling a 30 by 4pm we were wiped out. I had run out of food, AGAIN. Luckily Joe had some extra. I stayed the night there, ditched the bear canister and was back on the trail at 10:30 the next morning.

The snow pack continued all week. I slipped and fell 30 feet into lava rocks and scratched myself up pretty good. I post-holed while “skiing” down the backside of Dick’s Pass and started flying down the hill on my stomach. I was able to self-arrest with my trekking pole, which got bent in the process. I kept stepping through snow bridges and falling all throughout Desolation Wilderness.

I have almost now made it to Donner Pass and hopefully, out of the bigger snow. Such a tough week, but I was able to keep a 30 mile average and aside from some scrapes, cuts, and bruises, I’m feeling pretty damn good!✌🥾🥾

 

Week 6: Desolation Wilderness, CA to Lassen State Park, CA

Total Miles: 250.1

 
Starting off the week I had only 4 hours of sleep and needed to pull a 40 mile day through 90 percent snow pack up and over Squaw Valley and Donner ski areas. I did this to meet my cousin at Donner Pass and stay at his place for the night. Showered up and resupplied, I was back on the trail the next morning.

The snow continued. I’m at the front of the PCT hikers now so making my own path through the snow trying to stay close to the trail has been hard. The snow finally ended and the trail continued into what little forest was left over from the Dixie fire from last year. Downed trees, everything burnt and covered with soot. It looked like the apocalypse.

I knew this section of trail was fairly flat and the scene was so depressing I decided at 1 pm to pull a 50 mile day and get as close to Old Station and my next resupply. It was a long day, 5:45am-12:35am. 50.5 mile day. My longest so far.

Also, a bird purposely flew into my head. ✌🥾🥾
 

Week 7: Lassen State Park, CA to Marble Mountain Wilderness, CA

Total Miles: 252.9

 

After pulling the 50.5, I was tired but managed to make it to Old Station and get my resupply box. I then hiked two miles and took a nap. I camped 30 miles in for the day.

The next day, I made it to Burney Falls. I got ice cream and a microwave chicken sandwich. My next resupply was Ammirati’s Market in Castella. I would cross highway 5 leading to Mt. Shasta and take a side trail to get there.

Before I arrived, I had enough service to check the weather and it showed rain coming in. I didn’t have a rain coat after leaving mine in the Mammoth hotel and getting drenched and freezing a week before, so I decided to take a nero and go to the outfitter in Mt. Shasta.

I bought solid rain gear, stayed the night, and was back on the trail the next morning. It rained all day. Cold, wet, and windy. I was happy about my nero decision.

The next day I pulled a 47.5 to make up for lost mileage. I was hoping for a big day following that to put me close enough to Saied Valley to make it Tuesday before the store closed. 14 miles before Etna, the snow pack started up again with blowdowns and burnt sections.

It was slow going, and after getting lost at 10:30 at night, I found myself on the side of this steep mountain straddling a tree. I had to climb down in the dark through snow and loose rock. It was some of the most dangerous stuff I’ve encountered so far and finding out I just became an uncle I decided to stop pushing so hard that night.

I camped 38.6 miles in for the day, short if my goal, but not injured or dead.✌🥾🥾

 

Week 8: Marble Mountain Wilderness, CA to Klamath National Forest, CA

Total Miles: 205

 

My phone got wet and is fried! Crazy snow.  It was sketchy and tough-going. Obviously no pictures, sorry.

I’m taking a rest day and getting all this figured out.

Yesterday was really bad out there. Once my phone died, I was in some trouble. No blazes, and the trail was completely covered in snow. Also, it was windy, raining, in the low 40’s, and I broke my trekking pole.

I kept having to pull my phone out to navigate where I was going. But it was raining and snowing so hard that it eventually just got too wet. All I could do was walk with the inReach GPS using the compass to go north.

I basically blazed my own trail for 18 miles through the woods, covered in snow and soaking wet, until I made it to highway 62 by 7pm. From there I walked a mile to Crater lake. Frozen and soaked, I dropped $230 on the only hotel room they had left.

It’s snowing at Crater lake right now. June 13th! The trail is covered with over 4 feet of snow.

Basically Oregon is all snow pack and Washington will be the same. My pace is slowed, but today during my hitch into town, (Chiloquin, OR) I saw another hiker on the side of the road. It was “Sloppy Joe”! He got his ass kicked in the storm yesterday as well, and is also taking a zero. We’re teaming up for the rest of the PCT, it makes sense at this point to do so.

Once I get my new phone, I wont have anything saved from my old phone. So any texts I get from anyone, I wont know the number. Instagram, Far Out, TrackMe, Gaia, audiobooks and Spotify will all have to be re-downloaded. I’ll do them when I can, but Far Out and Gaia will be first, as well as TrackMe.

The marker dots on the map will be missing for a week or so, but I survived another crazy week out here and within the next couple days, in the snowpack and weather, we have Mount Thielson to do (9,100 ft.)

I found snowshoes. lol

Week 9: South of Seiad Valley, CA to Crater Lake, OR

Total Miles: 217

 

The snow has continued all through Oregon.

Any trail at or above 5,000 feet is covered in snow. We’ve taken some low alternate routes to avoid some tough areas and took a half day (nero) to avoid snow and rain high up near the 3 Sisters Mountain area.

It’s been weird relying on someone else for navigation but it’s been a nice change hiking with another human through all this tough stuff. My pace hasn’t slowed too much because of the snow, still pulling mid 30s into the 40s. But the temperatures haven’t gotten warm yet and the weather system of rain, wind, and snow has seemed to linger. Once summer does arrive the snow will start to melt which will help but the river crossings will be very sketchy.

Body feels good and the forecast looks promising. In a couple days Washington which will pit me over 2,000 miles on 65 days.✌👣👣

Sorry for the lack of pictures and no updated dots on my map😕

Week 10: Crater Lake, OR to Pyramid Butte Junction, OR

Total Miles: 243.7

 

Pushing big miles north has been tough, but we’re getting there. Mt. Hood is covered in snow and they will be skiing through summer up there for first time in 30 years!

Absolutely destroyed the all you can eat breakfast buffet at the Timeberline Lodge and then hiked out across the ski slopes and down the Timberline Trail through some sketchy ravines to Ramona Falls.

Hit a lot of tough snow outside of Cascade Locks and blow down trees. With one bent trekking pole and no micro spikes it was hard going. 19.1 miles in Cascade Locks and took the rest of the day off.

FINALLY bought a new phone, set it up and set off the next morning. Just shy of 38 miles for the day, it was the first day of hiking with no snow in over 500 miles.

The last northbound PCT hikers I saw were 700 miles back and southbound PCT hikers are stuck up north due to the snow, so we have been blazing the trail and not seeing anyone.

Made it through the Goat Rocks Wilderness and the Knifes edge yesterday. Lucky enough to see a herd of elk. Had a couple falls and some extremely dangerous snow slope crossings. Basically no fall zones. After glissading down the snow bowl off the top of the mountain, I ripped my shorts. We took a low route across several streams, more blowdowns and raging snow melt rivers to arrive a highway 12 and White Pass.

Staying with friends and resting up. Back to the grind tomorrow! ✌👣👣

 

Week 11: White Pass, WA to Lake Wenatchee, WA

Total Miles: 183

Big snow right out of the gate from White Pass to Chinook Pass in the Mt. Ranier Wilderness. Sketchy snowpack  side-hilling and the final mile seemed to drag on forever.

The wonderful Katie “Captain Planet” Rapp met us there with massive Donuts and Taco Bell and mapped out an alternate route around the next section to keep us at a lower elevation.

After the big fall last week, we have tried to stay out of snow and now we have the melt to deal with. River crossings are becoming an issue. Bridges washed out and Glacier peak still too dangerous to navigate.

Our alternate routes haven’t been easy, however. A lot of overgrowth and blow-down sections have made some slow going, but finally, one more week to the PCT northern terminus!

Week 12: Lake Wenatchee, WA to Nighthawk, WA

Total Miles: 243.3

 

Made it to the Pacific Northwest Trail!

The PCT threw everything it had at me, but now I’m heading East to Glacier NP.

The snow pack went all the way to where I turned onto the PNT. In the end, it was roughly 1700 miles of snow pack hiking. Now It’s oppressive heat, road walking, mosquito’s, and insane amounts of burn area and blow-down’s. Oregon and Washington were, without a doubt, the hardest stretch of hiking I’ve ever done.

My new phone got soaked and died on me, so this is my third phone. Lost the pictures, but I’ve finally gotten the tracking up and running, so my map dots should be updating on the regular. Looking like the halfway point of the GWL in 100 days. Back to big miles which feels great. Back to back 40’s and finished the the week with a 50 mile day.

Week 13: Nighthawk, WA to Colville National Forest, WA

Total Miles: 282.2

 

Sending it hard on the PNT. Crazy up-hills and massive road walks.

I’m still hiking with Sloppy and we made a plan to do this section of the GWL in around 17 days, which is 3 days faster then last year. Currently we are carrying a 42.5 mile average for this section.

As hot and exposed as the road walks are, we are able to crush miles through those parts. Sometimes it’s tough though, having full days of 40 plus miles on a dirt road. I just put in the ear buds and try and limit my breaks.

Water is difficult to get to sometimes and the sources aren’t the best. I’ve been treating with bleach for the last 2 weeks. Initially, pool water was all I thought about but after so many liters of it as this point I don’t even notice.

The trail towns on the PNT have some of the nicest people. Trail Angels Josh and Jami in Northport are incredible, and it was really great to see them again. We also had breakfast paid for us by this great couple in Metaline Falls.

I feel pretty good, all things considered. I’m right on my pace and hope to be at the halfway mark around 100 days.

So much hiking left but seeing familiar faces from last year helps me up the trail.✌️🥾🥾

 

Week 14: Colville National Forest, WA to Polebridge, MT

Total Mileage: 260.9

 

Most of the PNT is kind of predictable. Tough climbs that seem to go on forever, connected by long, exposed road walks that seem to go on forever. There are, however, a couple bushwhacks on this trail that make for some very interesting hiking.

One in particular is the Lions Head bushwhack. It is an 8 mile exposed ridgeline section of bouldering with smooth slanted rock linking the ridge together. It took a full 8 hours to do this 8 mile section. Although difficult and time consuming, this blue line (on the map) was way more fun than the red line (which I did last year).

After about a dozen more big ups and a lot more road walking, Sloppy and I made it to Eureka, Montana at 3:30 pm on Saturday. We had an 18 mile road walk in the middle of the day in 90 degree heat. Sloppy became very sick on the hike in and my stomach wasn’t feeling too great. It may have been from all the bleach we’ve been using to treat our water. Or maybe it was the jar of peanut butter I was given waaaay past it’s expiration date. As in over 6 years!

Sloppy’s parents came to visit and the next morning I took off towards Polebridge, Montana. I was hoping after breakfast with his parents, he would catch me. I received a text an hour later from him. He decided to take a zero day and rest. Can’t blame him after being that sick.

I pushed on and made it to Polebridge Monday evening. My resupply box didn’t arrive, so it looks like I’ll be doing another 300 miles on these shoes. They should have 800 on them by the time I get a new pair. I hope to see Sloppy again, he became a very good friend these last 1,500 miles and we went through a lot of crazy shit together.

Good luck Amigo, I’ll see you up the trail!✌️🥾🥾🥾

 

Week 15: Polebrige MT, to Red Slide Mountain, MT

Total Mileage: 269.9

 

After being kinda miffed about not getting my resupply boxes and knowing I now had another 300-plus miles to hike on blown out shoes, I took off from Polebridge and made it to the Ranger station. I picked aggressive distances between camps and headed in. It felt great to reach the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) on day 98.

Heading south now, I had a lot of mosquitoes and overgrown trail to deal with. Once I hiked into the middle of the park the trail conditions and maintenance were pristine. One night I could make my distance of 49 miles, so at 43 I just laid my sleeping pad on the trail and slept right there.

Hiked up and over Triple Divide Pass and by 6pm, arrived at Two-medicine campground. Crushed some snacks and talked with some dudes I had seen the day before struggling to get to the parking lot after a long day hike. Afterwards, I hiked almost until I was to East Glacier Village. I heard a huge animal jump into the river as I passed by. Guessing it was a grizzly.

After getting into East Glacier, I beat my resupply box AGAIN and had to buy my food for the next stretch. After dealing with a 5 mile blow-down section out of Marias Pass, I realized I wouldn’t have enough food and was contemplating having to hitch 30 miles into Augusta.

Luckily, in the Bob Marshal Wilderness I met some weekend hikers. One had a 100 liter pack and I knew he had some extra food. Jonathan and Melissa hooked me up with some Mountain House Meals and some other goodies and an hour later, I met another couple, Dito and Chantelle, who gave me even more food. This would be enough to get me to my next stop.

After a cruiser section through the Bob’s and some more blow downs near Cigarette Creek Trail, it rained for an hour. It felt nice, being that it was the first time in a month since I’d gotten any precipitation. I finished the week out with a solid 42.7 mile day.

 

Week 16: Red Slide Mountain, MT to Black Mountain, MT

Total Mileage:  249

 

Made it to High Divide Outfitters, owned by David Libby. The greatest little gear shop in the world!

He has everything a Hiker could want and he’s right on the trail! It sits 200 miles beyond my halfway point at Stemple Pass, so for me it was a perfect time to make some gear adjustments. New battery packs, headlamp, shoes, sun hoodie, long handle spork, body glide, trash compactor bag, gallon Ziplock and some food to get me to Helena.

A couple long 15 plus mile stretches with no water. To do the 215 miles in just over 5 days to High Divide, I had a couple massive days, pulling 40 plus with over 9,000 feet of elevation gain each day.

Unfortunately, I again beat my packages to Helena and was forced to resupply at a gas station. I finally got back on the trail late at 1:30 pm. I was able to squeak out a 25.2 followed by a 42.1 finishing just before Anaconda.

Mcdonald’s hit the spot, the grocery store had what I needed, and I set out of there at 10am Sunday morning heading out on a long road walk before going up and over a couple passes, most notably Storm Lake Pass, Cutaway Pass and Rainbow Pass.

Tough but fun hiking 🥾 and feeling healthy and good and right on my pace.

 

Week 17: Black Mountain, MT to Lima, ID

Total Mileage: 258

 

Sorry for the delay in posts. I’ve been sending it pretty hard and service has been very spotty.

This is a long one because I’m currently on a flat 113 mile section of the Red Desert on a road so I have nothing but time as I walk and write this.

Anyway, I did it again. I didn’t get enough food out of Anaconda. So 3 days into this 230+ mile section, I had to start rationing. Doing 40’s on 2,000 calories is not fun. Thankfully, in this section I would run into an incredible human from back home, “Stix”, who is crushing the CDT and getting her Triple Crown. (That means she’s hiked the Appalachian Trail, Pacific Crest Trail and Continental Divide Trail.) What makes her Triple Crown so impressive is that she’s a 10%er. Which means she doesn’t skip any miles of the trail. Very few hikers do this. 90% of people claiming to thru hike skip. She posts great pictures and videos so follow along with her @maxinemachine on Instagram. When we met up she wasn’t feeling too god and I was desperately low on food, so when she asked if I wanted to take some of hers, I played it off but inside I was beyond ecstatic! After a couple hours, sadly we went our separate ways. It helped to see a familiar face, It does get lonely sometimes. Just part of the mental challenge of the loop I guess.

Finishing the day with a 38.5, and making it to Bannock Pass at 6:30pm the next evening, I did the Anaconda to Leadore segment of 233 miles in 5 days 8 hours and 30 minutes. A trail angle named Randy picked me up right on time at Bannock Pass and got me into town just before the store closed and I could stuff my face with some refined sugar and processed goodness. Stayed at a campground down the street, somehow fried my GoPro by charging it too long overnight. I sent it to Dallas to handle. Until then just pics unfortunately.

I also received a Birthday care package from “Mom Cut” a sweat heart of a person I met on the PCT this year. I had all kinds of things including a mini peach pie with a candle. Thank you!!

Randy was right on time and I was able to get back to the trail at 10:30am. Full resupply with a goal to get to Island Park, ID in under 5 days. A 180 mile section. Tough however with a lot of elevation gain, ridge climbs up, up, up then down, down, down. Water was tough with not a lot of options and those hoofed 😈 we’re everywhere, forcing me to to treat all sources except springs.

My birthday on the 14 was more eventful than I wanted it to be. I was in good spirits after hitting 4,000 miles a couple days before. Blasting out of camp while it was still dark I was using my headlamp. Once it got light enough I didn’t notice it was still on and at some point it fell off my head without me noticing. I hiked a mile back looking for it with no luck and I knew this would come back to burn me. I just didn’t think it would be the way that it did.

Open meadows, some roads, and for the most part, an easy day. By 9:30 it was almost dark and I was at 39.8 miles. Side-hilling through hoofed devil country I finally called it. Plopped my pack down and just cowboy camped under the stars. The night was clear. At 1:30am I heard thunder and lightning, it was coming towards me and being this exposed gave me flashbacks from Yellowstone from last year. (See week 14 or 15 from GWL 2021 for that story) I quickly stuffed everything into the large pouch on the outside of my pack and hiked half a mile down lower to safety and just crashed right there. The next morning when I came around I looked at my packs and noticed that last night in the dark without my head lamp, I had dropped my pack into a fresh cow pie and it had smushed through the pouch. In the storm I had stuffed a lot of my gear into that pouch so everything was covered in cow shit. Happy Birthday to me!

 

Week 18: Lima, ID to Bridger Teton Wilderness, WY

Total Mileage: 252.6

 

After the cow-crap-covered pack incident and finishing out the week just south of Lima, I needed to push hard to make it to the Island Park post office on Wednesday before it closed at 4.

So I did a 41.4 to Taylor Mountain and did 25.6 by 3:45 to arrive at the post office which had my 9th pair of shoes. Took an hour to charge my stuff, ate a Cali chimichanga and kept going.

The next day I arrived in Yellowstone and hiked with 2 traveling nurses, “Moon Fall” and “Bodega.” We hiked and talked all the way to Old Faithful Village. Great humans!

From there I went another 10 miles and cowboy camped on the beach at Shoshone Lake. The next day I met “Hong Kong”, a great kid from San Fran rocking an External Frame Pack. Haven’t seen those since the 70’s, lol. We spent the next couple days hiking together. Awesome dude and we hiked to the pass and hitched into Dubois. He picked up the lunch tab and I decided to not shower or laundry and just resupply my food and get back on the trail.

At the grocery store I ran into “Chuckles” and “Frisky” a couple from back home I was hoping to see on the trail. I decided to hike out with them and take a leisurely afternoon. I Camped with them and got to bed before 10pm, which I hadn’t done in a while. I said my goodbyes and left for the trail at 4:45 am.

Everything was going relatively smooth until about 2pm when the dark clouds rolled in while I was going through a wide open meadow. Thunder, lightning and hail lingered right over the top of me and it took 40 minutes to get to the treeline and pitch my tent. I had been running to get out of it and once I got inside my tent, freezing and soaked, I passed out for 2 hours. When I woke up it was drizzling so I packed up and hiked another 3 hours before calling it a day.

What a week!

 

Week 19: Bridger Teton Wilderness, WY to Sage Creek Road, WY

Total Mileage: 265.9

 

I was cold and wet all night so I wasn’t able to get good sleep. I struggled to get packed up and moving, but finally did at 7am. A late start for me but that’s how it goes sometimes.

Because I wasn’t able to get close to 40 miles the previous day, I knew I wouldn’t make it to South Pass City before they closed the gift shop at 5pm on Thursday. I decided to do the alternate routes through the Wind River Range and hit Knapsack Col and Cirque of the Towers. My pace would be slowed by the terrain but I would get some really good views and some good technical hiking in.

Leading up to Knapsack was awesome with beautiful lakes and twisting, exposed trails. I did the CDT redline last year so I was happy to do these alternates even though my pace would be slowed. Arriving on top of Knapsack at 6pm, I had a sketchy scree field to navigate down to Glacier and into Titcomb Basin where I camped for the night. I was satisfied with 29.8 miles for the day.

On the trail at 5am the next morning, I made my way back to the CDT and to the Cirque of the Towers alternate by the end of the day.

The next morning the clouds spit rain on occasion and I pushed hard, up and over Texas Pass and Jackass Pass. Saw a weekend hiker with the most lopsided, enormous pack I think I’ve ever seen. I asked him if he bought one of everything at REI before this trip. A lot of weekend hikers in this section that I had to pass, “excuse me,” “right behind you” until making it back to the CDT and through some blow-downs. I finished late with 38.2 miles leaving 11.5 miles on the table to South Pass City and my next resupply.

Arriving there just before 9am, I took just over an hour and got back on the trail wanting to do 35 miles out from 10:30am. The Basin is completely exposed desert so I was able to cruise and finish with 46.5 miles.

The next day a 50 and 32.9 after that to arrive in Rawlins by 4:30 on Sunday. Hotel, Walmart, good sleep and I was at the post office and heading out of Rawlins by 11am. Met a mechanical engineer named Mountain Goat and we hiked out of Rawlins together. Cowboy camped off the side of the road.

It felt good to almost be in Colorado!

 

Week 20: Sage Creek Road, WY to Berthoud Pass (Winter Park), CO

Total Mileage: 244.5

 

I made it to Colorado halfway through day 134. 6 States down, 3 to go.

Started to see a lot of hunters in this section. Elk season was a day or two away. Entering into Colorado, the trail was mostly ATV trails through the woods. Kinda lame but I could keep a solid pace. Eventually I reached the Zirkles Wildernes. Now the Colorado hiking would begin.

Long, never ending uphills, exposed ridgelines and water carries of 5-10 miles. My buddy from the A.T., “Flask” picked me up and I stayed with him in Steamboat. Surprised to see another A.T. buddy who drove up from Boulder, “No One” who I haven’t seen in 7 years! These guys were part of my trail family and I will never have another one.

I took my time getting back to the trail, which is hard for me and the miles and pace I feel I need to do, but sometimes you have to slow down and enjoy the company. Ate an overpriced but delicious breakfast and “No One” got me back to Rabbit Ears Trailhead by 10:45.

20-something miles of road walk later and back on trail. I was close to the spot where I broke my foot, so getting to that and beyond was going to be an incredible milestone for me. I knew the spot, how could I forget. I arrived there and sat for 10 minutes, thinking about everything I had to overcome to get back to this less than a year later. 3 jobs, endless planning and redoing 4800 miles. I had to dig deep to get back and now that I have, it was all worth it.

I briefly stopped into Grand lake the next day and headed out around 10:30 just wanting to get to Winter Park where my hike ended last year. I kept thinking about how I felt in this section, my foot becoming increasingly sore and trying to figure out what it was. I saw a log I sat on last year where I had taken my shoe off, rubbed my foot and popped 6 ibuprofen. This year it was a tough stretch with a healthy foot over James Peak and Mt Flora. Big uphills with a ton of elevation gain and sharp rocks covering them. I kept thinking, “you did this with a broken foot” and remembered the excruciating pain I was in.

Arriving at Berthoud Pass, I’m healthy this time and everything from here to to the end is all new to me. It’s been the hardest thing I’ve ever had to overcome, but if you want something bad enough, you can’t ever give up!

 

Week 21: Tank 7 Creek, CO to North of San Juan Mountains, CO

Total Mileage: 248.4

 

What can brown do for you? For me, not much.

I made it to the Viking lodge at 6:30 pm Monday night, expecting a UPS package with shoes, shorts, and a headlamp. It was supposed to be there on Saturday. I waited until 1 pm the next day then rushed to one outfitter and bought shoes and another for the right headlamp. Saw “Mogley” who I had hiked with a couple days before. Got a ride up to the pass by a carpenter named Jeremy, and started out at 2pm.

I hiked late and slept in a parking lot near I-70. The next morning, walked the 3 miles up the dirt road to Grays Peak trailhead. First 14er! Took 90 minutes to reach the summit. Quick breakfast and down the saddle and up and over Mt Edwards Peak. Stalked by mountain goats I knocked out the Argentine-Spine with less that half a liter of H20 in the middle of the day.

Resupplied in Breckenridge the next day. Briefly hung out with some A.T. ’15 buddies (Guru and No One) and took off. Collegiate West around Twin lakes and up and over Hope Pass.

Met and hiked with “Pinkman” and arrived at Monarch Pass on Monday. Quick resupply and into Gunnison Wilderness.

Ready for the San Juans!

 

Week 22: North of San Juan Mountains, CO to Southern San Juan Mountains, CO

Total Mileage: 242.1

 

The goal for this week was to keep my 35 mile-per-day average through this tough section. The San Juans have been on my mind since last year and now I was finally about to do them.

The night before, I almost got water while eating a fig bar, until I caught a whiff of dead, rotting cow carcass. I entered into the La Garita wilderness and had 35.6 miles to reach the pass and hitch into Lake City for resupply. Some good meadow hiking until the uphill pulls started getting tough. Hail, rain, and high winds made it difficult, but I made it to the pass by 7pm. Was unable to get a ride in that night so I camped in a parking lot across the street.

The next morning it was cold and I was still damp from the day before. Once in town, I resupplied, charged my stuff at the church annex ( separate building for hikers and AA meetings), met and talked with “Golden Girls”, a cool couple doing the CT. I was back at the pass by 2 pm and into the big mountains.

Cold and wind for the next couple days, but the weather held and the views were spectacular and the hiking hard. There isn’t a lot of flat hiking in this section. You’re either going up or going down and by the 3rd night, pulling a 37 mile day with 9,500 feet of elevation gain, I was wiped out.

I pitched my tent where I thought it was safe from the wind but I was so wrong! At 1 am, my trekking pole (which I use to pitch my tent) snapped in half from the high winds. With the tent collapsed on top of me, I thought about just sleeping through it, but the wind made the tent so loud, I felt like I was being shaken in a paper bag. I packed up and hiked off the mountain at 2 am.

With hardly any sleep, I made my way to Wolf Creek Pass and got a ride into Pagosa Springs for a new pole. John and Dawn, two amazing people, drove me in and back up to the trail (23 miles one way). They had just hiked the CT and have also Triple Crowned. AT ’04, PCT ’05, CDT ’07. All With map and compass and before the trails became popular by the woman who ate her mother’s ashes.

Back on trail, I made it another 15 miles before calling it a day. 70 miles of hiking and 3 hours of sleep was a bit rough.

Almost in New Mexico and only 1500 miles to go!

 

Week 23, Southern San Juan Mountains, CO to Chama, NM

Total Mileage: 206.5 

 

It took me 5,400 miles but I finally hit the ” Hiker wall.” I think carrying the 35 mpd through Colorado and the San Juans did it. Also, what comes from over 5000 miles of hiking. The cortisone shots I had injected into each knee have worn off so I’m feeling both torn menisci. I’ve lost both pinky toe nails, stubbed another toe last week, so I’ll lose that nail soon enough. An in-grown toenail in my left big toe too deep to dig out. Arthritis in my other toe, which reminds me every day like clockwork when I hit 30 miles. Burning in my left hip, pain in my right shoulder and 25 pounds lost. I’m so thin I’d make a Victoria Secret model jealous. My legs, darker than a pocket, my ass, whiter than a ghost. I’ve eaten enough Ramen noodles to go to the moon and back 14 times and enough peanut butter to cover the Great Wall of China. It’s been a month since I’ve done proper laundry, instead rinsing and cleaning my clothes in the few showers I’ve been able to take. I’ve only slept 17 nights in a bed since the start. When I arrived in Chama, NM after only 20.7 miles for the day I was knackered. Grabbed a room above a dive bar, picked up my resupply box and died.

I woke up at some point and received a text from “Styx” who had only a few days to finish her CDT and get the triple crown! She was heading north from Grants, NM to Chama (a section she had to skip earlier due to fire closures) and seeing her would be the morale boost I needed. A storm was coming in that would be unavoidable, I just hoped when I ran into her it wouldn’t be downpouring. After the local greasy spoon forgot my pancake, I got a late start back to the trail, and by 9 pm heavy rain started. My tent leaked a bit through the night, and it was cold, so not too much sleep. Maybe 4 hours instead of my normal 5.  It took me a while to get going. By 10 am there was heavy rain, wind, and cold. It was too much to push through. My hands were frozen, I was completely drenched, and the wind was blowing the rain right into my face. I peeled off the trail and decided to wait it out. After an hour or so I got back to the trail and it came down even harder. I went back in the woods for the next 5 hours. It was at this time that Styx probably passed me. When you have only a couple of days to finish a long trail nothing will stop you, and nothing did. Styx completed the CDT and her Triple Crown on 9/23. Congratulations 🎉

The next day, pissed about 15.5 miles the previous day and missing Styx, I arrived at a couple’s camp site just before noon. Kevin and Bev, sweet people! While I dried my stuff in the sun, Bev made me an Elk burger and Kevin gave me chocolate. Leaving there I was back on track, knocking out mid to high 30’s for the remainder of the week, until reaching Cuba, NM. Getting a motel room, eating more convenient store junk food and getting out of town the next morning. Tarantula mating season is in full effect now. Cowboy camping will be on hold for now.

 

Week 24: Chama, NM to Gila River Alternate, NM

Total Mileage: 264.4

 

Disclaimer – Just so you know, I usually write these posts on road walk sections. Forgive my grammatical errors, English majors. cars are whipping by at 65 mph and it’s a little distracting. To write these at the end of a day is too much and obviously on trails is too slow.

To get me out of the “Hiker wall” funk, a large road walk section was exactly what I needed. Making up a full day in one week wasn’t going to happen but I could chip away at it. Water would be my issue through this section. I chose the Mt. Taylor alternate route which has some water and better views than the CDT proper. Up and over Mt. Taylor 10,000 plus feet and making good time into Grants, NM.

A quick resupply of 4 days worth of food (The bag girl couldn’t believe I could get all my processed sugar and empty carbs into my pack 😆). A quick 4 tacos and a quesadilla at Taco Village and I was on my way. It all took 90 minutes and that makes me happy.

A lot of highway from there and instead of staying on it, (which is a straight shot to Pie Town, NM), I decided to follow the CDT which makes sort of a horseshoe shape out to the west into the El Melpais National Monument Wilderness. This would add roughly 40 miles to my overall distance. I DID NOT want to beat my UPS box to Pie Town and it was looking that way, so the decision was made to do the extended miles.

Initially a great change hiking through volcanic rock and lava fields. It soon became a grind, following rock Cairns and pushing through thorny, straw type prairie grass. It stuck constantly to my socks and drove me crazy. After stopping a half dozen times to pull the prickles out I had to just deal with it.

I made it to Pie Town at 3:15pm on Saturday. Grabbed my box, took a shower and talked with bike packing foreigners while I waited for my stuff to charge. I was the only Hiker and only American. I left at 7 and banged out 8.5 more miles before calling it.

The following day I chose the Gila River Alternate for it’s water and the fact that I would be leaving the CDT soon with enough miles on it.

Basically 2,400 plus miles in 68 days. I finished the week next to a man-made cow pond in high grass and thorn covered socks. Happy with the distance I covered over the week and excited to make it to Doc Campbell’s Outpost and into the next leg, the Grand Enchantment Trail.

I had no idea what I was in for…

 

Week 25: Gila River Alternate, NM to Indian Spring Canyon, AZ

Total Mileage: 193.7

 

I woke up feeling like I was in a skiff slowly taking on water. Every corner of my tent had a puddle and my sleeping bag was soaked completely.

I left at 6 am excited to reach Doc Campbell’s Outpost, resupply, and start the next leg of this hike; The Grand Enchantment Trail. It was raining as I started, and I followed the wrong trail through high grass for a while until the rain stopped. I pulled my phone out and realized I was half a mile off trail. Normally not too bad, I had just gone on the wrong side of a huge ravine and I couldn’t descend it.

A couple barbed wire fence jumps and I was back on trail. This was the Gila River Alternate and I could continue on it but with all the rain lately, the river was high and moving pretty good. It wasn’t something I wanted to deal with. So I chose the Gila High Route instead.

There was a 3 mile forest road to follow to begin with and this was a good time to check the beta on Doc Campbell’s. I looked at the comments. Doc’s closed at 4 on weekdays and was completely closed on Wednesdays. It was 10 am on Tuesday and I was 36 miles away. There was no point in going there now so I needed to adjust my game plan.

I had somehow downloaded an alternate route of the Grand Enchantment Trail that started north of Doc’s and that at the time seemed like the right move to make. I would peel off the high route, go up and over Loco Mountain, cross the Gila River. From there get into the Clayton Mesa Trail, which would lead to Turkey Feather Pass, over a few 10,000 footers and arrive on the Holt Apache Trail.  I would then take this to the West Fork River Trail, South Fork River Trail, to the White water Trail and onto Highway 180 and into Alma, AZ. Seemed like it would work, right? I stopped for an hour plus and dried all my stuff and did an inventory of my food. I had enough to make it to Alma and I should be there in 3 days.

NO markings at all, thousands of blow-downs, the trail underneath was burned down to rock so I could make out the trail. So much over growth I had no I idea where the trail was. It was raining hard and it was starting to become the most frustrating and angry hiking situation I’d ever experienced. Over 17,000 trail miles and the Holt Apache Trail was demoralizing me. At a certain point it hailed and I thought it couldn’t get any worse. It was at that point something caught my foot and I fell face first into the mud. There was a barbed wire fence lying across the trail, the only human thing on the entire section.

I eventually made it down to the West Fork River. The trail was flat going along it and easier to follow. I was in a canyon now and when the walls came right to the river the trail would switch to the other side. I must have crossed this water 30 times. By 6 I could see my breath and it was starting to get cold. I was completely soaking wet and I knew sleeping in temps under 40 we’re in hypothermia world.

I noticed a cavern that over hung near the river and dry beach sand underneath. There were some sticks and leaves and I decided at 6:30, with under 18 miles in for the the day, to stop here and start a fire. I never make fires and I’ve never made one out of necessity, but tonight I did. I was able to pitch my tent close enough to dry it and get everything from completely soaking wet to damp wet. The best I could do.

I shivered all night in my bag, only moving when it became too uncomfortable in one position. Waking up early wasn’t going to happen. I just knew no matter what happened the next day, I needed to make it to Alma.

I had 10-ish miles to get to the highway. Tough to pack up so cold and wet, but I was on the trail by 8.

Crisscrossing the South Fork River another two dozen times, the canyon started to open up. I was following orange ribbons that indicated where to cross the river and eventually they stopped. I thought I was on trail as I started ascending higher until I was up on top of a mountain. I figured I could descend off the Western side and get back to where I thought the trail was. No luck. That side was a another huge canyon where the Whitewater River joins the South Fork, with 200 foot rock walls, and I couldn’t go back the way I came up. That, as well, was also too sketchy.

I had no choice but to go off the North side; butt sliding and down-climbing a 500 foot dried out ravine to the White water River, cross it and climb 50 feet up to the White Water Trail.

After that fun-filled hour, I made it to the Gold Rush Trail, switch backed up to the top and saw the fresh pavement of the highway in all its glory. After hopping a barbed wire fence I was there, and I was spent. I had 3 miles or so to Alma. However, that was heading west and after that the trail (route) continued to the west. If it was anything like what I had just been through I wasn’t looking forward to it.

If I headed south, I would go through a “town” called Glenwood. From there it was only 10 miles of road, south to the original G.E.T. route I was going to do. There was also a trading post and stone cottages for rent. I had only done 10 miles at this point, but all I wanted was a dry bed and shitty television. By 5 pm I was in a bed watching the Golden Girls (satellite only had 4 channels).

The owner told me the weather isn’t normally like this in October. This was August monsoon weather. He gave me the handicapped unit which, given my state, was probably the right move. No stairs!

I laid everything out on the ramp out front and just dumped my pack upside down. I Hung my bag, which had clumps of feathers on each corner of it, and laid out my tent and everything else. I Ate 2 Hot Pockets, 2 burritos, a Big AZ chicken sandwich and took a hot MF shower. Watched some more Golden Girls and passed out.

I had a 100 mile road walk ahead of me, which would go into Arizona. I couldn’t believe I was walking into the state I started in less than 5 months ago. The following day I arrived in Safford, AZ after doing a 45 mile day. I wanted to pull a 50 but I needed to resupply and charge my stuff. Also, I thought maybe I could use the rest before making my way to the Arizona Trail.

Yet again, I had no idea what I was in for…

Out of Safford, I had 12 miles of desert road walk. From there, I peeled into the Pinaleno Mountains. The route brought me up through Ash Creek, which was a 7 mile uphill canyon. It was hard. No real trail to follow, just the occasional rock Cairns, but other than that, nothing. It was slow.

Sometimes it was not possible to continue through the canyon, so I would have to hike out and around a section. At one point, it began to rain and hail and not wanting to pull out my phone so it wouldn’t get wet, I followed what I thought was the trail. It wasn’t. By the time the hail stopped and I looked at my location I was up on top of a rock ridge that continued to get more narrow and more sketchy. I was bouldering at this point and the rocks were slippery. I was hoping to get to the top of this and cut over to the route. I realized that this was not good. To fall now would be the end. On either side. I had to carefully butt slide down, stretch my legs out to the next ledge, but not to jump down, too afraid I would accidentally knock myself down the mountain.

I eventually made it to a flat spot, removed rocks, and had just enough space to pitch my tent. 7 miles in 7 hours. It was dark and I was cold and wet. At this point I would be happy to be out of this section in 3 days at 20 miles a day. I wasn’t sure of the distance, it seemed somewhere in the neighborhood of 60 miles.

The next morning I found the route and made my way out of the canyon by 10am. A 4-mile road walk was a nice change.

On to Clark Peak Trail. Yes, actually a trail… with rain and hail. This lead to an open area of route creation. Sharp brambles, cactus, and high grass left me cut and scratched all over my hands and legs. It was too hot now to wear pants and the brambles poke through them anyway. The high grass made the hiking sketchy because underneath were sharp rocks and a lot of them. By 9:30 I was spent and had done 30 miles.

193.7 to end the week. The first week not over 200 miles. It was so hard. A dry river bed near Indian spring was where I cowboy camped.
 

Week 26: Indian Spring Canyon, AZ to Broody Seep Trail Junction, AZ

Total Mileage:  240.8

 

I needed to have a solid week, something close to my average of 245. First, I had to finish the G.E.T. I knew a 30-mile day would be tough in this terrain. All I could do was my best.

On the trail at 5:30 am, I followed jeep roads for a bit and then I was on it. More bushwhacking, scrapes, and cuts. BRAMBLES! Eventually I made it to a canyon, which I followed for quite a while. It had a river flowing through it, so I didn’t have to worry about water. At one point I stepped off a rock and my entire leg sunk into the sand all the way up to my hip. My foot was straight down, and if I pulled too hard, I would have lost my shoe. It took 5 minutes of working my leg back and forth as the water flowed passed me to get my leg out. After that episode, I walked.

A few minutes later, I wondered how much longer I had in this canyon. Turns out I had missed a turn .3 miles back and I wasn’t even supposed to be there. Walking in quicksand, I backtracked. Found the route, lost it, found it, lost it. I tried to cut across and bushwack to get back, but it seemed I just kept making it harder for myself. I had to stop and re-evaluate my situation.

First off, 35-mile days were out, I knew that. The harder I pushed to try and make up what I felt I had lost, the harder the trail pushed back. I had to change my game plan. If I missed a turn, I would backtrack to where I missed it, no more cutting-up-and-over shenanigans. I would keep my phone out and follow the line as I went, instead of assuming I was on the right path. And I would also slow down and just go at a consistent pace without getting frustrated at losing time. It’s hard to swallow your pride a lot of the time, especially after 6,000 miles, but when you have to change, you have to change.

Surely enough, the G.E.T. became more enjoyable after this, and I started to embrace the “choose-your-own-adventure” aspect of hiking a route over a trail. By 10 pm I had made it to a jeep road and cowboy camped off to the side. My shoes and socks were completely soaked and covered with so many thorns and bits of prairie grass that the itching and pricking were unbearable.

I had 8 miles of road walk the next day, then 20 miles of river canyon hiking in the Aravaipa Canyon. It was fun and the water wasn’t deep. I saw a lot of weekend hikers in this section and at 2:30 pm I made it to the trailhead. Now I had 12 miles of dirt road and 11 miles of paved road to make it to Winkelman, AZ. I was out of food. Well, food that didn’t need water added to it. Ramen, oatmeal, and instant mashed potatoes were all I had left, and I couldn’t use my water for that. I felt like the G.E.T was a draw; yeah, I made it through, but barely. It tested me more than anything up to this point and I was so happy to be out of it and on my way to the AZT!

I arrived at the Speedway Gas station at 10:45 pm and, like always, went straight for the hotdog roller. I grabbed the last taquito, two hotdogs, two green chili cheeseburgers, a bag of Doritos and a pint of chocolate milk. I sat out on the curb and stuffed my face. The green chili cheeseburgers might be the best I’ve had in the trail, or I was so hungry it just seemed like they were.

Afterwards, I camped under the overpass at a defunct RV park. I laid my stuff on a cement platform and was just about to go to sleep when a couple of tweakers appeared out of nowhere and started asking me what I was doing there. I wasn’t in the mood. After 200 miles of getting my ass kicked, and a 44-mile day, I almost wanted them to try something.

Once they realized I wasn’t the fuzz, they told me to be careful of the rattlesnakes, which was good advice. I’d been so focused on my pace that I didn’t even think about it! Pushing through high grass, at night, and crawling over rocks during the day, if I had been bitten by one of those in the remoteness of where I was it could have been a very bad thing, to say the least.

After losing a breakfast sandwich out of my pocket on the road walk, I made it to Kearny, AZ, the next day and resupplied at the Family Dollar store. The sun was baking me, and I started to be aware of my own smell. I desperately needed to do laundry. Since Steamboat I haven’t done legit laundry, only cleaning my clothes in the shower, and It was time to get it done.

Leaving town was tough. I wasn’t used to the oppressive heat and the hot pavement. Walking west, directly into the sun, was wearing me down. By 4 pm I made it to the Arizona Trail. It’s a single track, well-marked trail, something I hadn’t seen in a while. I reached the lowest point of the AZT, just over 1,600 feet. From there, it was a 3,000-foot climb over 6 miles, and the only water for a while would be the Gila River. Flowing good and brown, I had to shoo a hoofed devil away from the spot from where I wanted to collect water. The heat beat me up and, by the end of the day, I was wiped out.

The next day started hot, of course, and then a thundershower came through and cooled everything off. Two hours later, another thundershower. It’s OK, I thought; two is OK. But I was determined to get a 40-mile day in, and I couldn’t deal with another one. It was 5:30 pm and, as I was ascending a mountain, I heard it and looked behind to see the darkest set of clouds, complete with thunder and lightning, coming my way. I pushed hard and, by 5:45, I was getting downpoured on. There was lightning shooting all around me so, as quick I as I could, I set my tent up in a small grove of trees; but not well, more like a temporary lean-to to protect myself because I really didn’t have time. This storm came over the top of me and I thought this could be it. I had a good run. In my fury to set up my tent, I had kicked a cactus so, as this crazy thing was happening above me, I was pulling thorns out of my foot.

This was certainly a low point for me on the trail. I felt like I just couldn’t catch a break. I needed as close to 40 miles today, and it wasn’t going to happen, AGAIN! Why do I care about my pace and mileage so much? you might be wondering. Why am I not just hiking the way a normal thru-hiker does, with multiple rest days and hiking whatever I can during the day? Well, I’ve only told a few people up to this point, but I might as well say it. I’m trying to become the first person to break 200 days on the Great Western Loop. It has never been done before. The fastest is 208 days. That’s why I’ve pushed so hard, that’s why I’ve talked a lot about my mileage and pace. BUT being stuck on the side of a mountain in a lightning storm, soaking wet in the dark, is not part of the plan.

This is where I had a decision to make. Do I fix my tent, hunker down for the night and ride this storm out, with 25 miles for the day? Do I just forget about this whole sub-200 thing? Or do I pack up my soaking wet gear, in the rain and lightning, and try and eek out another 6 plus miles before calling it a day? Screw that! I had gone 6,100 miles up to that point in 179 days. I wasn’t going to lose it now. I packed up in the storm, flipped off the sky and hiked my ass off. If I was struck, I was struck, but I was done allowing this crazy weather to dictate my hiking pace.

I went up and over mountains as fast as I could, down through canyons and pushing through overgrowth. An additional 7.5 miles in for the day, another cold and wet night. I was still in this.

The next morning, I made it to Roosevelt Lake Marina, dried my stuff, ate some real food, and ran into “Penguin”, a guy I had hung out with in Mammoth back in ’17. Cat at the Marina was nice and said these storms were not normal. I left there at noon, with a big climb out on the Vineyard Trail.

The following day I ran into “Sparkles” and “Circuit”, a great couple I had met on the Colorado Trail a month before. I pushed hard to finish out the week with a 43-mile day, ending near midnight. 240.8 miles for the week, just shy of 245, but after all the shenanigans of the week, I was happy with that numbers.

I needed a big week. I needed a string of good weather days. I needed to get to the Grand Canyon.

 

 

Week 27: Broody Seep Trail Junction, AZ to Hermit Basin, Grand Canyon, AZ

Total Mileage:  269.5

 

I woke up at 4 am with a fire under my ass. Not actually, but it was cold, and I probably wouldn’t have minded it.

On the move by 5 am, I needed a big week. I was just shy of 43 miles to Pine, AZ and I needed to get there by the end of the day. I had very little battery life left, and I wanted to charge my stuff overnight instead of taking 3 hours the next day to do it. Two birds with one stone was the name of the game.

The hiking was tough, a lot of uphills. I met an older guy named “Cheese it” on the trail who said it was mostly downhill for me from there. Not sure what “Cheese it” was putting in his juice that the morning, but the trail was anything but downhill.

I kept pushing; 20 miles, 30, 35, 40. I arrived at the highway to Pine at midnight. I then walked 2 miles into town. I found an outlet outside of a laundromat and plugged my stuff in, laid my pad and sleeping bag out, and fell asleep on the side of the road, hidden by some bushes.

The next morning, I resupplied, had a big breakfast, and was back at the trail by 9 am. Knocked out a 34.2-mile day. The following day a 40.3 to make it to the Saloon at Mormon Lake, get my resupply box with my 13th and final pair of shoes, and have a Ribeye steak dinner, courtesy of another fellow Looper named “Phish”, who was there to meet me. We hung out for a bit; he gave me some intel on the section coming up, and I pitched my tent close by, next to a jeep road.

I had 37 miles to do today to make it to the REI in Flagstaff before they closed at 8 pm. I desperately needed new shorts. I was tired of the whole western United States catching a glimpse of my left ass cheek flapping in the breeze. I made it. Barely. I had no desire to deal with laundry, so I just bought a new pair of socks instead.

My good friend Levi’s dad, Steve, lives in Flagstaff; he picked me up and took me to a killer Mexican restaurant. He then dropped me off at my motel and brought me back to the trail in the morning.

It was a cruiser section from here and I was able to get 41.5 for the day. I was in a large open meadow, and the next morning the wind was whipping and it began to snow. I was one layer short of being reasonably comfortable but, as it stood, I had to continue to push hard and stay warm. I got 41.7 in for the day.

After 20 miles the next day, I made it to Tusayan, AZ. I resupplied at the general store and the prices they charged for things were borderline criminal: $9.49 for a thing of Oreos! Cigarettes were cheap, though.

I had 6 miles to make it to Grand Canyon Village and the ranger station to get my permit for the park. It was 2 pm and the ranger station closes at 5. As I was applying mustard to my microwaved “Big AZ” chicken sandwich, a woman walking by asked if I was doing the Arizona Trail. I said yes, but no, and briefly explained the loop. Her name was Jen Hogen, and she’s a ranger in the park. She was able to get me a permit over the phone and help me figure out logistics through the Park, the Tonto Trail, and the South Bass Trail.  She saved me a bunch of time, gave me a map, and pointed me in the right direction where I didn’t have to walk the 8 (not 6) miles to the Grand Canyon Village. Thank you, Jen!!!

After doing everything I needed to do, I crammed in another 11 miles for the day, getting down into the Canyon, which was significantly warmer than up above. Ending the day with a 32.9. this week was hard, but I got the weather window I needed and an easy trail.

I may just pull this crazy thing off after all…

 

Week 28: Hermit Basin, Grand Canyon, AZ to Wickenburg, AZ

Total Mileage:  266.9

 

The Tonto Trail inside the Grand Canyon is rugged. Looking at the map, it reminds me of an earthquake needle. Back and forth, zigzagging alongside canyons that jut off from the Colorado River. As the crow flies, it would be about 25 miles, but it’s over 40. There is no signage; the only indications of the trail are small rock cairns.

I had to be careful while walking because the trail is right along the cliff walls at times, and because I didn’t download the right maps, it was hard to tell the exact location. Night hiking through this terrain, trying to navigate using only little rock piles, was tough.

It was warm in the canyon, but the views were spectacular! Slow going and tough. I scooped water out of puddles pooled up in the canyons. I would hike for a mile or 2 along the Colorado River, then hike 2 or 3 miles away from it, cross the canyon at a shallow spot and head back 2-3 miles toward the Colorado again. This is how it went for a day and a half.

I made it to the South Bass Trail, and it led me out of the canyons up steep terrain. By 3 pm I was out. 300 miles of various types of roads is the only thing separating me from the end of this thing!

I plotted a course using various jeep and dirt roads of approximately 100 miles to get to Seligman, AZ. The only water in this section was out of cattle ponds. Brown and sketchy, but my only option.

After a 47.7-mile day I arrived in Seligman. Exhausted, and with everything closed in this small town, the owner of the Route 66 motel, Wendy, gave me a Rubbermaid of fresh chicken stew she had just made. I ate the hell out of that, showered and died.

I had a late start the next day, with a huge breakfast at the local greasy spoon. Dallas and I plotted a course, and I was heading south. It was only 70 or so miles back to Nothing, AZ, but I needed the total miles of 6,875 to consider this loop complete. So, the route will go south, to west, to northeast to north, coming back up to where I started over 6 months ago.

 

Week 29: Wickenburg, AZ to Nothing, AZ

After passing out on the side of the road after a 48-mile day, you would think that I would be excited about reaching the end. Taco Comfort Solutions (a main sponsor besides Ransome Multimedia) was sending a dude to meet me with a bottle of Dom, take me out for dinner, and give me a ride back to Vegas where they had booked me a room at the Rio. Very exciting stuff, I know. I should have been elated by this incredible end, but at the time it did not feel that way.

I told them I would shoot to be at the finish line on Wednesday at 6 pm, and I still had around 70 miles to go. I was tired. I could brush it off and not mention it, sound like I was ‘Tommy Tuff Nuts’ but, truly, I was beat. The pace, my body and the same types of food had worn me down. I was close and I knew it, but there just wasn’t much left in the tank.

Roadwalking is fine, I’ve done a lot of it, but it can be boring. Maybe that’s why so many thru-hikers skip them. It’s easy to know your distance and pace but, after 6,800+ miles, it seemed to have a crazy way of exposing the parts of your body that have just been barely holding on. In my case, feet, shoulder, back and knees. Did I say knees? Yeah, knees.

There’s wasn’t anything I could do about the pain, so I ran. My pack was light. I was out of water, low on food and ready to end this thing. It was going to hurt anyway, so I figured running most of the last 5 miles wouldn’t matter.

As I crested the hill, I saw the “Nothing” billboard, and a rental car pull into the parking lot, then the trunk popped, and a bottle of Dom came out of it; it hit me. Not in the way that you think. Not in the way thru-hikers are moved to cry at a monument or dance or whatever. It was more… I don’t know, relief. Rescued from it in a weird way. I realized I didn’t have to worry anymore. Not about time, pace, food, water, weather, or terrain.

I knew that by tagging that sign and hopping into the air-conditioned car I was headed back to the safety of the regular world and its guarantees: get food when I’m hungry, grab an extra jacket when I’m cold, go inside when the weather isn’t good. Predictability, routine, and schedules; the struggle was over.

I did it my way. It wasn’t always perfect, but I got it done. The Great Western Loop in under 200 days. Someone once told me it was my dream. I corrected them and said it was the ultimate challenge.

A special thanks to Dallas and Mayra, from Ransome Multimedia; they are my backbone. Always there. Always helping and always supporting me. My friends and family and my incredible sponsors. Todd Facey, from Taco Comfort Solutions, spearheaded the financial support. Taco doesn’t usually sponsor thru-hikers (not many companies do financially) but this man believed in me, in the message I was trying to convey, and made things happen. I was so lucky for having had their support, and for Todd. Thank you!!!

Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS) took great care of me. They heard me on the SLASR podcast, understood I’m not a huge social media person, but knew that I work with my feet and not with my thumbs. All the miscellaneous gear I needed, they got me. Things while I was hiking, they were there.  Incredible!!!

Levi “Bed Head” and Grant “Gusha”, from Nashville Pack, are solid dudes. That is the one piece of gear that becomes a part of you, and they are making the best! Keep crushing it guys!!!

Darn Tough socks hooked me up with 17 pairs of their lightweight gems. It’s the go-to sock, and anyone that hikes knows that. Thank you!!!

In the end, they were right, completing the Great Western Loop was a dream and, amazingly enough, it came true.

34.8 miles per day was my average. Wrapping my head around that will definitely take some time.

 

Great Western Loop

Nothing, Arizona – Nothing, Az

6,875.5 miles

197 days 11 hours 12 minutes 17 seconds.

34.8 mpd

 

This Hiker Just Completed the 6,800-Mile Great Western Loop in Less than 200 Days

 

 

 

About Me

Chezwick at the southern terminus of the ECT

Chezwick at the southern terminus of the ECT

The hiking bug caught me in my early 20’s with a trek to the base camp of Mt. Everest. The culture, the people, the views. It opened my eyes to a lifestyle that I could see myself pursuing. For the rest of that decade, however, I became sidetracked with the party lifestyle that comes with living in a ski town. Fortunately, the freedom of the trail never left me, and as my 30’s approached, the question of what I wanted to do with my life started to consume my thoughts. I knew I didn't want to continue my career in the restaurant business and up to that point it was the only type of work I had ever known. The idea of marriage, kids, a mortgage, while working some food service job just to keep up with the Joneses scared the hell out of me. I searched for answers.

The Appalachian Trail seemed like a good fit. A long distance trail that I believed would bring me the same feelings as the Everest trek I had done some years earlier. As I scrolled through pictures of the A.T. on the internet, I came across a scene that looked straight out of Jurassic Park. It was the Florida Trail. The wheels of adventure started turning again as I wondered if this trail would link up with the A.T. That’s when I came across the Eastern Continental Trail (ECT). The ECT is a 4,800-mile long distance hike that links together 8 different trail segments, using the Appalachian Trail as its backbone, essentially trekking the entire east coast of North America, starting at the tip of Key West, Florida and finishing in Gaspe, Quebec. With less than expert knowledge of what a thru-hike was, without reading blogs or watching YouTube videos, I bought what I THOUGHT I needed, and flew to Miami. With paper maps, a compass, and an old flip phone with no camera, I started hiking north and my new life began.

Over 10 months later I completed the trail and became the 16th person ever to hike the ECT. Two years later I attempted the Pacific Crest Trail, but I was stopped short by massive forest fires in northern California and Oregon. That year came to be known as “The Year of Fire and Ice.” This didn't discourage my sense of adventure and only seems to have fueled my determination for more!

Now that the hiking bug has firmly cemented itself into my core, the search for the next challenge and adventure has begun. I am now poised to attempt the 6,875-mile Great Western Loop. First conceived and accomplished by Andrew Skurka in 2007 and then Jeff “Legend” Garmire in 2018, it stands as the hardest thru-hike in the world. With a required average pace of no less than 30 miles per day, it has everything you could ask for from the ultimate thru-hike. Hot deserts, deep snow, dangerous river crossings, and an abundance of high mountain passes make this hike particularly demanding both physically and mentally. To be successful, rest days are nill, there’s no time for a trail family or hiking companions, and logistics have to be on point. In the end, it's about putting one foot in front of the other and with a little luck from mother nature and help from a core group of close friends and family, this will undoubtedly be the greatest adventure and accomplishment I could ever hope for.

 

Contact Me

The hike will also be filmed as a documentary.

Donavon deCesare

Donavon deCesare

Donavon deCesare
DIRECTOR / CINEMATOGRAPHER

Donavon is an avid outdoorsman having thru-hiked the Appalachian Trail in 2015, where he met Chezwick, and The Great Enchantment Trail in 2020. For the past decade he has had a varied film career working on critically acclaimed documentaries and narrative feature projects. He is excited to bridge his passions for filmmaking and hiking while documenting Chezwick along The Great Western Loop.

His work can be found at donavondecesare.com

 

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